An Introduction to Cusco, Peru

Elevation: 3360m / Population: 325,000 / Telephone Code: 084

We are also writing a new website just on Cusco and Machu Picchu. Take a preview at www.cuscovisitor.com

Often referred to as the ‘Archaeological Capital of the Americas’ Cusco is a beautiful city riddled with contrasts between the indigenous styles and the modern western world. It is these contrasts that have given Cusco its rare beauty. Most visitors are keen to get to Machu Picchu, either by trekking for 4 days along the Inca Trail, or by 4 hours on the train, but Cusco itself has a lot to offer the visitor and most travellers usually end up seduced with this vibrant city and stay longer than first planned.

The first thing that hits the newly arrived visitor to Cusco are the Inca walls; enormous granite blocks carved to fit together perfectly without the aid of mortar beds. Many of the walls were simply built upon during the construction of a new Spanish city. Its a tribute to the Incas that their anti seismic design has survived the test of time while the Spanish colonial architecture has been rebuilt several times following a wave of earthquakes that have hit the city. Located at an altitude of 3,360m above sea level, Cusco was referred to as the ‘Navel of the World’.

The city has a long and interesting history dating back to 1200AD and linked to the first Inca ruler Manco Capac. However the city saw its expansion in the 15th century under the rule of the greatest Inca Pachacutec, who led a drive that spread the boundaries of the Inca empire as far south as Chile and Argentina, and north to include Ecuador and Columbia. This rapid expansion abruptly came to an end on the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadors, led by Francisco Pizarro who, following the murder of the Inca Atahaulpa in Cajamarca, marched into Cusco in 1534 and added it definitively to the realms of King Charles V. This invasion opened the gates to a cultural mix that has left its imprint on every aspect of Peruvian culture, especially in the ancient Andean capital of Cusco.

When arriving in Cusco from the coast you’ll immediately notice the thin clear mountain air, a result of the City’s high altitude. The first day in particular should be spent quietly relaxing and taking things easy as you gently acclimatize. Plan to spend at least 3 days in and around Cusco before starting any serious trekking such as the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. This is an ideal opportunity to see the highlights Cusco has to offer such as a tour of the City, the nearby Inca Ruins of Sacsayhuaman, Qenko, Pucapucara and Tambomachay and, of course, a day trip out to the Sacred Valley of the Incas including a visit to the traditional Indian market at Pisac, the beautiful village of Ollantaytambo and the small village of Chinchero located high up in the mountains.

For more information about acclimatization to the high altitude and preventing altitude sickness see our web page Dealing with Altitude Sickness

 


Cusco City Map


Cusco Tourist Ticket

Cusco Boleto Turistico

Admission to many of the most popular places of interest in Cusco can only be made using a ‘Tourist Ticket’ (Boleto Turistico). This ticket allows you entrance to many sites in and around Cusco and costs 130 Peruvian Soles (approx US$48) and 70 Peruvian Soles for students with an ISIC card (approx US$26). The ticket is valid for 10 days and can be bought at the COSITUC office at Avenida Sol 103 office 102 (Mon-Fri 8am-6.30pm , Sat 8am-2pm) or at any of the sites included on the ticket below. (just in case you were wondering COSITUC stands for Comite de Servicios Integrados Turistico Culturales Cusco) www.cosituc.gob.pe

The tourist ticket allows entrance to 16 sites which are:

In the city of Cusco:

Just outside of the City (and usually visited as part of a half day city tour):

In the Sacred Valley & around Chinchero (usually visited as part of a full day Sacred Valley tour except Moray) –

To the south of Cusco (and rarely visited) –

  • Pikillacta (near Urcos and the only major pre-Inca ruin in the Cusco area)
  • Tipon (mainly Inca terracing)

Partial Tickets

If you don’t have the time or inclination to visit all of the attractions on the “General Ticket” listed above then you can buy separate tickets to smaller groups of attractions known as tourist “Circuits”

Circuit 1: Costs 70 Peruvian Soles (approx US$26) and is valid for 1 day Includes Sacsayhuaman, Q’enko, Tambomachay and Puca Pucara.

Circuit 2: Costs 70 Peruvian Soles (approx US$26) and is valid for 2 days Includes Museum of Regional History, Museum of Contemporary Art, Koricancha Museum (but not Koricancha itself), Museum of Popular Art, Native Music and Dance Centre, Pachacutec Monument, Pikillacta & Tipon.

Circuit 3: Costs 70 Peruvian Soles (approx US$26) and is valid for 2 days Includes Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero & Moray

Not Included:

Entrance tickets to the following sites are not included in the Boleto Turistico and must be purchased separately

  • Cathedral (S/.25) or free with Religious Sites Ticket – see below
  • La Compania (S/.10)
  • Koricancha / Qoricancha /Temple of the Sun (S/.10)
  • Inka Museum (S/.10),
  • Museo de Arte Precolombino (S/.20)
  • La Merced (S/.6)
  • Museo de Arte Religioso del Arzobispado (S/.15) or free with Religious Sites Ticket – see below
  • San Blas Church (S/.10) or free with Religious Sites Ticket – see below
  • San Cristobal Church (S/.5)
  • Museo y Convento de San Francisco (S/.5)

Religious Sites Ticket – El Boleto del Circuito Religioso

The Religious Sites Ticket costs S/.50 and is valid for 10 days.

The ticket allows entrance to 5 sites in Cusco which are:


 

Things to See & Do in Cusco

The Plaza de Armas (Main Square)

The Plaza de Armas (main square) was the centre of Inca Cusco and, still today, remains at the heart of modern Cusco. During Inca times the Plaza was known as Huacaypata (the Place of Tears or the Weeping Square) and was a place of ceremonies and military parades. It has been said that when the Inca’s conquered new lands they would bring back some of the soil to be mixed with the soil of Huacaypata, as a symbolic gesture to incorporate the newly gained territories into the Inca empire.

The Plaza was once flanked with Inca palaces. The remains of the ancient walls of Inca Pachacutec’s palace can still be seen on the north-west side of the square (inside the Roma Restaurant close to the corner of the Plaza and Calle Plateros.

The northern and western sides of the Plaza are now lined by arcades with shops and travel agencies. There are many restaurants, bars and coffee shops with beautifully carved wooden balconies overlooking the Plaza – a great place to relax and enjoy the view.

The Plaza’s north-eastern edge is dominated by the Cathedral which is flanked on the right-hand side by the El Triunfo church. On the south-east side is the smaller but more ornate church of La Compania de Jesus with its impressive pair of belfries.

Cathedral

Plaza de Armas, open to visitors 10am-5.45pm, admission S/.25

The Cathedral dominates the north-east side of the Plaza de Armas and sits squarely on the foundations of the Inca Viracocha’s palace. The Cathedral was begun in 1550 and completed nearly 100 years later, constructed in the shape of a Latin cross. The three-aisled nave is supported by only fourteen massive pillars. It contains nearly 400 colonial paintings including the Last Supper by Marcos Zapata showing Christ and the Apostles about to dine on guinea-pig, washed down with a glass of chicha! In the sacristy there’s a painting of the crucifixion attributed to Van Dyke. Ten smaller chapels surround the nave, with the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception, and the Chapel of El Señor de los Temblores (The Lord of Earthquakes) are worthy of special attention.

The Cathedral’s real magic lies in the mingling of history and legend. It is said that when the Cathedral was built an Inca prince was walled up in one of the towers and that when the tower falls the Inca will emerge to claim his birthright and free his people. After the earthquake of 1950 thousands of believers waited hopefully for the tower to collapse, but despite severe damage, they did not and were later repaired.

El Triunfo

Admission is included with the Cathedral entrance ticket

El Triunfo is on the right hand side of the Cathedral and was the first Christian church in Cusco. It was built on the site of Suntur Huasi (the Roundhouse), the main Inca armoury where the Spanish were trapped during Manco Inca’s siege in 1536. When the Incas burned the city the thatched roof of Suntur Huasi caught fire, but then mysteriously went out. The Spanish later broke out and recaptured Sacsayhuaman, ending the siege. Before long the “miracle” had grown into a vision of the Virgin Mary extinguishing the flames, accompanied by Saint James (Santiago) on horseback, streading terror among the natives. The church was built to commemorate this victory and the miracle.

La Compania de Jesus

Plaza de Armas. Admission S/.15 open 9-11.30am & 1-5.30pm

La Compania de Jesus church is located on the south-east side of the Plaza de Armas and rivals the Cathedral in grandeur and prominence. The original structure was built in the 1570’s by the Jesuits on the site of Inca Huayna Capac’s palace, known as Amaru Cancha or Palace of the Serpents and was said to be the most beautiful of all the Inca palaces). Huayna Capac was the last Inca to rule over an undivided, unconquered empire. The first church was destroyed in the earthquake of 1650. The present day building was finally completed 18 years later in 1668.

The most impressive feature of La Compania is the incredible baroque facade with two majestic bell towers. The interior is cool and a little gloomy apart from a stunning gilded altar-piece which is often lit up at night. The church also posses several important works of art from the Cusquena School. On the right hand side of the church is the Lourdes Chapel which is now used as an exhibition centre to display local paintings and handicrafts.

Plaza Nazarenas

Plaza Nazarenas is a pretty little square just 1 block from the main Plaza de Armas in Cusco. To get there just follow the cobbled street to the left of the main Cathedral (standing in the Plaza de Armas looking at the Cathedral in front of you, its the street to the left heading uphill) As you go up the street you will pass the Museo Inka on your left, which is well worth a visit.

Plaza Nazarenas is surrounded by some of the best and most exclusive hotels in Cusco. As you enter Plaza Nazarenas you have the 5-star Inkaterra La Casona on your left. On the far side of the Plaza and to the left you have the 5-star Belmond Palacio Nazarenas and just next door and to the right you can find the 5-star Belmond Monasterio Hotel. Both Palacio Nazarenas and the Monasterio both have excellent restaurants set in beautiful colonial courtyards and open to non-residents, check out the Restauarant Senzo (Palacio Nararenas) & Restaurant Illariy (Monasterio) respectively.

On the far left of the Plaza Nazarenas (as you enter from the Plaza de Armas) you can find the Museo de Arte Pre-Colombino (the Pre-Colombian Art Museum). If you are like me and don’t know your history “Pre-Colombian” means any Peruvian history relating to the time before Chrisopher Colombus discovered the Americas. i.e. the Incas and cultures before them. I know you knew that, but just in case.. This is an excellent museum and if you are planning on visiting any museum whilst in Cusco I would recommend the Museo de Arte Pre-Colombino first, narrowly followed by the Museo Inka and then maybe by the Museo Machu Picchu. Unfortunately none of these museums are included on the Boleto Turistico so you’ll have to pay an extra entrance fee (but well worth it and much better than the free museums included on the Boleto Turisto which are enough to put you off visiting museums for life). Located in one of the interior patios of the Museo de Arte Pre-Colombino you can find the stunning MAP cafe. It’s not a cafe but a stylish top quality restaurant. Looking like a glass cube this intimate restaurant serves modern Peruvian cuisine.

Inca Stonework (Hatun Rumiyoc)

Hatun Rumiyoc (“the Street of the Great Stone” in Quechua) is a narrow pedestrianized alley which runs to the north of the palace of Inca Roca, the sixth Inca. (follow Calle Triunfo to the right of the Cathedral and just keep going straight on). The massive Inca wall of the palace is well preserved and contains the famous 12-angled stone which is located about halfway along the wall. The stone is famous for its size and incredible workmanship since it fits perfectly with its neighboring stone blocks. The 12-angled stone can also be seen on every bottle of Cusqueña beer!!

Cuesta San Blas

Cuesta San Blas is the name given to the narrow cobbled street that runs from the end of Calle Hutun Rumiyoc uphill to the Plazoleta de San Blas. This is the gateway to the San Blas district famous for its narrow streets and alleyways filled with handicraft shops, artisan workshops, boutique hotels and little restaurants and bars. Cuesta San Blas is the perfect introduction to this district and is lined with some lovely handicraft shops selling local ceramics and paintings. Its a steep little climb so if you’ve just arrived in Cusco you will certainly start to feel the effects of the altitude on your heart – try to take it easy and take plenty of rests.

At the bottom of Cuesta San Blas, on the corner with Calle Choquechaca you’ll find Jack’s Cafe. This is a very popular place and often there’ll be a queue of tourists outside waiting to get a table. You can get a great full-English breakfast here, fresh juices, a highly recommended chicken and vegetable soup plus loads of other delicious dishes. About a third of the way up the road on the left you can find Granja Heidi (Heidi’s Farm) which offers fresh, nutritious meals as well as a good selection of vegetarian meals including delicious stuffed peppers.

San Blas District

The San Blas district is located on a hill to the northeast of the Plaza de Armas. The area is known as Cusco’s artisans’ quarter since many of the best craftsmen have their workshops and small art galleries in the cobbled, narrow streets surrounding the 16th-century church of San Blas. Craftsmen include Hilario Mendivil, Santiago Rojas, Maximiliana Palomino & Edilberto Merida. It is believed that this area was also the artists’ district even during the Inca times, with the streets filled with the best gold- and silver-smiths, potters, painters and carvers from throughout the Inca empire.

San Blas really comes to life in the evenings when the bars and restaurants open.
The area above the fountain to the northeast of the plaza is a good place to take advantage of the view out over Cusco and the red tiled rooftops. On Saturdays there is a handicraft market in the square.

San Blas Church (Iglesia de San Blas)

Plaza San Blas, admission S/.10 open 10am-6pm Mon-Sat. 2-6pm Sun
San Blas church, founded in 1562, is of simple adobe construction but it contains an extraordinary wood pulpit carved from a single massive tree-trunk. At the top stands Saint Paul, his foot resting on a human skull, believed to belong to the craftsman who made the pulpit.


 

Guide to the Best Museums in Cusco

Inka Museum / Museo Inka

Corner of Tucaman and Ataud, up the street to the left of the Cathedral, S/.10 entrance fee (about US$4), open Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-4pm

The Museo Inka run by the San Antonio Abad University is the best museum in Cusco for those interested in Inca history. The museum is housed in the ornate 16th Century Admiral’s House. This grand colonial mansion first belonged to Admiral Francisco Aldrete Maldonado and was built, like much of Cusco, on Inca foundations. It was completely rebuilt after the 1950 earthquake. The museum’s collection is well displayed and informative and includes the culture in the region from pre-Inca, through Inca times to the present day. The collection includes ceramics, textiles, metal and gold work, jewellery, skulls that have been deformed by trepanning, and tomb containing several mummies. An English-speaking guide is a good investment. During the high season local weavers from the Centro de Textiles Tradicionales de Cusco can be seen working in the courtyard. Prices are quite expensive but the quality is high. Official museum website: http://museoinka.unsaac.edu.pe (website only in Spanish)

Museo de Arte Precolombino (Pre-Colombian Art Museum)

Northwest side of the Plaza de las Nazarenas, open daily 9am-10pm, General admission S/.20, Students S/.10

This beautiful museum, set around a spacious courtyard, was opened in 2003 and contains a collection of more than 450 artefacts which were taken from the storage rooms of the Museo Rafael Larco Herrera in Lima. On display are jewellery, pottery, metalwork (gold and silver), stone-carvings and weavings from the Pre-Colombian cultures (before Columbus arrived) including the Nasca, Moche, Chimu, Paracas, Nasca and Inca cultures. Pieces are well chosen and well displayed. The building which houses the Museo de Arte Precolombino was formerly the mansion of the conqueror Alonso Diaz and later the residence of the Earl of Cabrera. The structure was built on the ruins of an Inca ceremonial court. The museum has a cafe and a good but expensive restaurant. Official museum website: http://map.museolarco.org/home_en.html

Museo Machu Picchu

Casa Concha, Santa Catalina Ancha 320, Cusco. Admission S/.20, S/.10 students. open 9am-5pm Mon-Sat.

This is a new museum dedicated to the history of Machu Picchu and houses more than 360 artefacts from Machu Picchu returned by Yale University in 2011. The museum contains many exhibit rooms with displays and interactive videos and maps. On the ground floor is a model of the archaeological site of Machu Picchu. Casa Concha is a beautifully restored colonial mansion which was built on the site of Puka Marka – the residence of the royal lineage of Tupaq Inka Yupanqui. More recently it served as an army barracks and later a police station before being donated by the government to the local university of San Antonio Abad. Official museum website http://www.museomachupicchu.com

Monasterio y Museo de Arte de Santa Catalina (Santa Catalina Convent and Art Museum)

Santa Catalina Angosta, Sat-Thurs 09:00-17:30, Fri 09:00-15:00

The Santa Catalina Convent and Museum (Monasterio y Museo de Arte de Santa Catalina) was built over the ruins of the ancient Acllawasi, or “House of the Chosen Women” one of the most important Inca buildings overlooking the main plaza. These “Virgins of the Sun” as the Spanish called them, were devoted to the cult of the Sun God and wove exquisite textiles of vicuna and alpaca for the Inca and ceremonial purposes as well as preparing the sacred chicha beer. Many were chosen to bear the Inca’s children. After the Conquest the Acllawasi became home to a cloistered order of nuns who still occupy part of the building today. Lucia Isabel Rivera de Padilla founded the Santa Catalina Convent in 1601. She also founded the beautiful convent of the same name in Arequipa several years earlier. The Santa Catalina convent was named after Saint Catherine of Siena, who was the founder of the female part of the Dominican Order. Today the convent houses a religious art collection, including paintings from the famous Escuela Cusquena.

Museo de Historia Regional (Regional History Museum)

Casa Garcilaso, Corner of Calle Garcilaso and Heladeros (just off Plaza Regocijo) 8am-5pm Tues-Sun. Admission is with the Boleto Turistico

An eclectic collection of items from Cusco’s history chronologically arranged but often poorly labelled. Artefacts include some Nazca mummies, gold ornaments, plenty of ceramics, photos of Cusco just after a major earthquake, Inca weavings and some paintings. Although all very interesting I would recommend visiting the museums listed above before this one. You may have had enough off museums before you get this far – however entrance is included with the Cusco Tourist Ticket so may be worth a quick visit.

Museo de Arte Religioso (Archbishop’s Palace / Religious Art Museum)

Corner of Hatun Rumiyoc and Herrajes. Admission S/.10 open 8-11am & 3-6pm Mon-Sat

Built on the foundations of the palace of the Inca Roca, this remarkable building once belonged to the Marquis de Buenavista and later became the Archbishop’s Palace. The museum has a fine collection of colonial paintings and furniture.

Choco Museo

www.chocomuseo.com Calle Garcilaso 210 (2nd floor) – just 2 blocks from the Plaza de Armas, Cusco. Admission is free but the Chocolate tour & workshop costs S/.70 per person and should be booked in advance online. open 10.30am-6.30pm

Small privately run museum dedicated to cacao and the art of making chocolate, French owned. The tours fill up pretty quick so we recommend that you book in advance online if you can. Allow about 2hrs 30mins for the tour/workshop. You can also just pop in for a great fair-trade hot chocolate, chocolate fondue or crepes & ice-cream. Always a winner with the kids. Staff speak excellent English. Small store & restaurant area.

Museo de la Coca

Plazoleta San Blas, Cusco. open 9am-6pm admission fee S/.10, free to visit the shop

This small, but informative museum tells the fascinating history of the coca leaf. Your journey begins with the pre-Inca cultures to whom the leaf was considered sacred. Medicinal values and benefits are well explained before moving through to the modern day and the dramatic impact of the cocaine industry. There is a little shop where you can buy coca leaves, herbal tea and other products including candies (don’t take coca leaves out of the country, they are still illegal in most countries)

Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporaneo

Plaza Regocijo (1 block from the Plaza de Armas), Cusco. Open 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, Admission with the Boleto Turistico

Rather a small museum / art gallery, a bit disappointing really and well down the list of museums you should visit when in Cusco. However it is free, and if you are passing through Plaza Regocijo when it starts to rain …

Museo de Sitio del Qoricancha

Avenida El Sol, Cusco (down Avenida El Sol just past the turning left for the Qoricancha). Admission included with the Boleto Turistico.

Not much to say about this rather small, uninteresting, underground archaeological museum apart from the fact that if it wasn’t included on the Boleto Turistico not many people would make the effort to go. Enough said.


Cusco’s nearby Inca ruins

Practical Information for Visitors

The Inca ruins of Sacsayhuaman, Q’enko, Puca Pucara and Tambomachay are situated quite close by to Cusco and can easily be visited in half a day, either independently or part of an organized tour.
The ruins are located along the road to Pisac, with Sacsayhuaman being the nearest ruin to Cusco. Entrance to the ruins is included on the Boleto Turistico (tourist ticke) – see Cusco City information for further details and prices. If you’re planning on visiting the ruins on your own then there are two interesting alternatives:

1) The first is to take a bus from Cusco on its way to Pisac and get off at the furthest ruin Puca Pucara. After visiting this Inca hillfort you can cross the road to visit Tambomachay and then walk back along the road to Q’enko and Sacsayhuaman. In the valley immediately to the left of the huge Inca stones of Sacsayhuaman you’ll find a small path leading down to Cusco. (total walking distance about 8km). Instead of the hassle of catching a local bus you could take a taxi to Puca Pucara for about $6-10.

2) Alternatively you could walk up to Sacsayhuaman. From the Plaza de Armas just climb the steep street of Resbalosa, past the church of San Cristobal and follow the well marked path up to the ruins at the hairpin bend in the road. If you head to the left of the huge white statue of Christ on the hill overlooking the city you won’t go too far wrong. It takes about 40 minutes from the Plaza and it’s a good test to see if you have acclimatized and are fit to undertake the more difficult treks such as the Inca Trail. From Sacsayhuaman you can hire a horse and a horseman to take you on a round trip of the other ruins (3-4 hours). The cost of hiring the horses depends on how many there are of you (and how rich you look), but 2 horses plus a horseman to show you the route should work out at about $6 per person.

Many tour agencies in Cusco offer an organized tour of the ruins. The afternoon tour by bus accompanied by a guide usually includes a visit to the Cathedral and the Koricancha (Temple of the Sun) and costs about US$15 per person (not including entrance fees). Most travel agents have tours leaving daily at 2pm returning to the Plaza at 6:30pm

Sacsayhuaman

Visitors to this magnificent Inca fortress, which overlooks the city of Cusco, cannot fail to be impressed by the beauty and monumental scale of this important Inca construction. Sacsayhuaman can be variously translated as ‘speckled falcon’ or ‘speckled head’. The last interpretation refers to the belief that the city of Cusco was set out in the form of a puma whose head was the hill of Sacsayhuaman. The origins are uncertain but the fortress is generally attributed to the period of Inca Pachacuti, the man who essentially founded the Inca empire.

The main ramparts consist of three massive parallel walls zigzagging together for some 400m, designed to make any attacker expose his flanks. The massive blocks, the largest being 8.5m high and weighing nearly 300 tonnes, are fitted together with absolute perfection. The foundations are made of Yucay limestone brought from over 15km away. The outer walls are made from massive diorite blocks from nearby, and the inner buildings and towers are made from dark andesite some of it brought from over 35km away. With only natural fibre ropes, stone hammers and bronze chisels it must have been an enormous task. The chronicler Cieza de Leon, writing in the 1550’s, thought that some 20,000 men had been involved in its construction: 4000 men cutting blocks from the quarries; 6000 dragging them on rollers to the site; and another 10,000 working on finishing and fitting them into position. According to legend, some 3000 lives were lost when one huge stone that was being dragged uphill broke free.

Sacsayhuaman played an important part in the final defeat of the Inca Empire by the Spanish. Pizarro’s party entered Cusco unopposed in 1533 and lived there securely for more than two years before finally being caught unprepared by the rebellion of Manco Inca in 1536.

Manco’s troops took the fortress of Sacsayhuaman, overlooking the city, and used it as his base to attack the Spanish. After weeks under siege in the city the Spanish broke out and charged into the surrounding hills to the northwest above the city. They then doubled back to capture the rocky outcrop opposite the fortress. From this outcrop they made repeated attacks across the flat plaza against the walls of the fortress. All the Spanish reinforcements on their way from Lima to Cusco had been massacred, so if the Spanish failed to take the fort they were doomed. In the evening, against all odds, the Spanish eventually broke through the Inca defenses and scaled the walls of the fort driving the defenders into the fortified complex dominated by 3 towers (foundations only remain today). After two more days of fighting the Conquistadors finally overwhelmed the natives, putting them all to the sword. It was said that during the battle a leading Inca nobleman, armed with a Spanish sword and shield, caused havoc by repulsing every enemy who tried to scale the last tower left in Inca hands. Having sworn to fight to the death, he leapt from the top of the tower when defeat was inevitable, rather than accept humiliation and dishonour

Q’enko (Zigzag)

This is one of the finest examples of a rock artfully carved insitu showing complex patterns of steps, seats, geometric reliefs and a puma design. The rock is an excellent example of the Inca ‘Rock Worship’. In Inca cosmological beliefs the Incas held large rocky outcrops in reverence, as if they possessed some hidden spiritual force. On top of the rock are zigzag channels which served to course chicha (local maize beer) or sacrificed llama blood for purposes of divination; the speed and route of the liquid, in conjunction with the patterns made in the rock, gave the answers to the priest’s invocations.

Inside the rock are large niches and a possible altar. This may have been a place where the mummies of lesser royalty were kept along with gold and precious objects

Puca Pucara (Red Fort)

Situated on a hill with superb views over the surrounding countryside Puca Pucara was more likely a tambo, or kind of post house than an actual fortress. Travelers may have lodged here with their goods and animals before entering or leaving Cusco. An alternative theory is that it served as a guard post controlling the flow of people and produce between Cusco and the Sacred Valley

Tambomachay

Commonly referred to as the ‘Banos del Inca’ or Inca baths, Tambomachay was a site for ritual bathing. The excellent quality of the stonework suggests that its use was restricted to the higher nobility, who maybe only used the baths on ceremonial occasions. The ruins basically consist of 3 tired platforms. The top one holds four trapezoidal niches that perhaps were used as seats; on the next level an underground spring emerges directly from a hole at the base of the stonework and from here cascades down to the bottom platform, creating a cold shower just high enough for an Inca to stand under. On this platform the spring water splits into two channels, both pouring the last metre down to ground level.


 

Cusco Day Tours

There are plenty of things to do around Cusco but the 3 most popular tours are:

  1. The Cusco City tour (half day)
  2. The Sacred Valley Tour (full day)
  3. A tour by train to Machu Picchu, usually for just 1 day but even better if you have the time to spread the tour over 2 days with an overnight in Aguas Calientes.

There are loads of travel agencies around the main Plaza de Armas selling these tours. The City Tour and the Sacred Valley tour are easy to booking just one day in advance, the City Tour can usually be booked in the morning and you can start the tour after lunch. Unless you specifically book a private tour you will usually just be grouped together with other visitors on a bus (can be up to 30 people in a group). When making a booking always ask what the maximum group size is, does the guide speak good English (or the language that you require), what time and where will you be picked up and get it all in writing with a receipt. Prices vary depending on the maximum size of the group and quality of guide. My personal experience of these tours is that the guides are usually just satisfactory but the tours are usually cheap and taking a tour is much more convenient than arranging the transport yourself especially if you are on limited time. Entrance fees are not usually included so its standard to have to buy your own Cusco Tourist Ticket (Boleto Turistico) and still have to pay an additional fee for entry to the Cathedral and the Qoricancha. Day tours to Machu Picchu can often be bought a couple of days ahead of time but during the high season entrance tickets to Machu Picchu can sell out several days in advance and it can also be difficult getting the cheaper priced train tickets or sometimes any train tickets at all. My recommendation would be to book your tour to Machu Picchu at least a few weeks in advance or as soon as you have booked your flights. Why risk waiting until you arrive in Cusco?

Cusco City Tour (half day)

Departures: Monday – Saturday 1:30pm until around 6:30pm

Typical Group Service Price: US$15 per person

Typical Private Service Price: 2 people US$70 per person, 3 people US$60 per person, 4 people US$45 per person

Group Size: (depends on the company but up to 20 people in a group is manageable, some groups as large as 30)

When to book: one day in advance is fine

Places visited:

Includes:

  • Transport by private bus
  • English-speaking guide

Does not include:

  • Entrance fees: Cusco Tourist Ticket is 130 soles, Cathedral 25 soles & Koricancha 10 soles

Sacred Valley Tour (full day)

Departures: Everyday 8:30am until around 6:30pm

Typical Group Service Price: US$25 per person

Typical Private Service Price: 2 people US$95 per person, 3-4 people US$75 per person, 5-9 people US$50 per person, 10 people US$30 per person

Group Size: (depends on the company but up to 20 people in a group is manageable, some groups as large as 30)

When to book: one day in advance is fine

Places visited:

  • Pisac Market 25 minutes
  • Pisac Ruins (entrance with Cusco Tourist Ticket) 90 minutes [not many companies stop at Pisac ruins due to time limitations preferring to spend more time at the market and other locations]
  • Urubamba for lunch 45 minutes
  • Ollantaytambo Ruins (entrance with Cusco Tourist Ticket) 60 minutes
  • Chinchero (entrance with Cusco Tourist Ticket) 30 minutes

Includes:

  • Transport by private bus
  • English-speaking guide

Does not include:

  • Entrance fees: Cusco Tourist Ticket is 130 soles
  • Lunch at Urubamba. Most companies stop at a designated restaurant with buffet lunch and gardens, typical price 25-35 soles per person

Maras & Moray Tour (half day)

Departures: Everyday 9am until around 2pm

Typical Group Service Price: US$25 per person

Typical Private Service Price: 2 people US$85 per person, 3 people US$65 per person, 4 people US$55 per person

Group Size: (depends on the company but up to 20 people in a group is manageable, some groups as large as 30)

When to book: one day in advance is fine

Places visited:

Includes:

  • Transport by private bus
  • English-speaking guide

Does not include:

  • Entrance fees: Cusco Tourist Ticket is 130 soles, Salineras 10 soles

Machu Picchu Day Tour (full day)

Rainbow Mountain (full day)


 

Recommended Hotels in Cusco (Luxury)

Belmond Palacio Nazarenas

www.belmond.com/palacio-nazarenas-cusco Plazoleta Nazarenas 144, Cusco
This former palace and convent has emerged from years of restoration to become one of Cusco’s most exclusive (and expensive) hotels. This beautiful intimate retreat has just 55 suites set around seven cloistered courtyards, each room is enriched with oxygen. Within the largest courtyard you’ll find Cusco’s first outdoor heated swimming pool. Hotel Monasterio is the sister hotel just next door. Guest can use the facilities and restaurant although the hotel’s own Senzo restaurant is excellent.
from US$595 [photos]

La Casa Cartagena Boutique Hotel & Spa

www.casacartagena.com/en Pumacurco 336, Cusco
The Casa Cartegena Boutique Hotel and Spa Cusco is a fairly new and welcome arrival to the luxury hotel scene in Cusco. After years of careful restoration this Italian-owned hotel is one of the most luxurious in Cusco consisting of only 16 large and homely suites surrounding an inner patio. The management boast that “back in the day, Pablo Neruda got poetic inspiration and Che Guevara spent many bohemian nights” whilst guests at this historic mansion.
All rooms are oxygen enriched. There is a lovely on-site spa.
from US$450 [photos]

Inkaterra La Casona

www.inkaterra.com/inkaterra/inkaterra-la-casona/the-experience/ Plazoleta Nazarenas 167, Cusco
Inkaterra La Casona is located in the corner of Plazoleta Nazarenas surrounded by cobblestoned streets. A beautifully restored 16th Century manor house. Surrounding the main patio, its eleven suites (4 patio suites, 5 balcon suites & 2 plaza suites) are provided with chimneys, heated floors and extra-large bathtubs. Its halls are decorated with colonial furniture, Pre-Columbian textiles and original murals.
from US$418 [photos]

Belmond Hotel Monasterio

www.belmond.com/hotel-monasterio-cusco/ Calle Palacios 136, Plazoleta Nazarenas, Cusco
This 5-star hotel was once a monastery – the seventeenth century Seminary of San Antonio Abad. Now tastefully converted into a truly beautiful 112 bedroom hotel. Conserving its original infrastructure, its decor is typical of the colonial period. There are several patios, a chapel embellished with gold leaf and paintings belonging to the Cusco school, as well as an excellent restaurant, bar and cafeteria.
from US$415 [photos]

Aranwa Cusco Boutique Hotel

www.aranwahotels.com/en/hotel-cusco/ Calle San Juan de Dios 255 (near Plaza Regocijo), Cusco
Aranwa Cusco Boutique Hotel is a restored 16th-Century colonial mansion which still retains much of the original character and atmosphere of that period. The hotel is filled with many paintings of the Cusco school, colonial sculptures and carvings. The elegant rooms have also been decorated in the traditional style with 4 poster-beds and colonial-style furniture.
from US$245 [photos]

Hotel Libertador Palacio del Inka

www.palaciodelinkahotel.com Plazoleta Santo Domingo 259, Cusco.
One of the best hotels in town. Tradition and elegance are combined with personalized service.
from US$225 [photos]

JW Marriott El Convento Cusco

www.marriott.com/hotels/hotel-photos/cuzmc-jw-marriott-el-convento-cusco/ Corner of Calle ruinas 432 & San Agustin, Cusco
JW Marriott El Convento Cusco is ranked among the top 10 hotels in South America by Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards 2015. Built atop ancient Incan ruins and situated around the 16th-century colonial Convent of San Agustin, this luxury 5-star hotel has 153 luxury guest rooms and suites which feature amenities like sumptuous marble bathrooms and plush bedding
from US$196 [photos]

Casa Andina Private Collection

www.casa-andina.com Plazoleta Limacpampa Chico 473, Cusco
from US$135 [photos]

Ramada Costa del Sol Picoaga

www.costadelsolperu.com/cusco/ Calle Santa Teresa 344, Cusco
4 star hotel with all modern facilities conveniently located 1 block from the main square. Beautiful converted colonial building with courtyard. Comfortable rooms.
from US$129 [photos]

Novotel

www.novotel.com/gb/hotel-3254-novotel-cusco/index.shtml Calle San Agustin 239, Cusco
4-star hotel opened in June 2001. Beautiful, glass covered colonial courtyard and nice gardens.
from US$116 [photos]

Casa San Blas Boutique Hotel

www.casasanblas.com Tocuteros 566 (the little road to the right half way up Cuesta San Blas), Cusco
A friendly little place with rooms arranged around a central courtyard
from US$104 [photos]

Hotel Arqueologo Exclusive Selection

www.hotelarqueologo.com Calle Pumacurco 408, Cusco
Beautiful colonial-style hotel with spacious courtyard and gardens. Peaceful and a good place to relax. Tastefully decorated rooms. English, French and German are spoken here (owned by French expat). The hotel also supports local artisans whose handicrafts and weavings are sold in the hotel shop.
from US$94 [photos]

Sonesta Posada del Inca Cusco

www.sonesta.com/CuscoPosadas/ Portal Espinar 108, Cusco
Good location just 1 block away from the main square. Typical and cosy decoration, provides easy access to main attractions.
from US$90 [photos]

Recommended Hotels in Cusco (Mid-range)

Hotel Plaza de Armas Cusco

www.cuscoplazadearmas.com/en/ Portal Mantas 114, corner of Plaza de Armas, Cusco
from US$128 [photos]

Hotel Encantada Casa Boutique Spa

www.cuscohotel-encantada.com Calle Tandapata 354, San Blas, Cusco
from US$115 [photos]

Rumi Punku

www.rumipunku.com Calle Choquechaca 339, Cusco
Clean and well organized. Original Inca doorway. Located in quiet street.
from US$110 [photos]

Quinta San Blas by Ananay Hotels

http://www.ananay-hotels.com/quinta-san-blas/ Carmen Alto 218, San Blas, Cusco
from US$108 [photos]

Casa Andina Classic Cusco Cathedral

www.casa-andina.com Santa Catalina Angosta 149, Cusco
Great location right next to the Cathedral and Plaza de Armas (Main Square). The hotels offers 43 comfortable rooms occupying three floors
from US$103 [photos]

Casa Andina Classic Cusco Plaza

www.casa-andina.com Portal Espinar 142, Cusco

Casa Andina is a new chain of hotels in Peru. Comfortable rooms and modern facilities.
from US$103 [photos]

Royal Inka 1

www.royalinkahotel.pe Plaza Regocijo 299, Cusco
Located in Plaza Regocijo, only 1 block from the Plaza de Armas. The Royal Inka hotel is a beautiful building built over 300 years ago on Inca foundations.
from US$99 [photos]

Best Western Los Andes de America

www.cuscoandes.com Calle Garcilaso 150, Cusco
Comfortable hotel with all modern facilities.
from US$94 [photos]

Los Apus Hotel

www.losapushotel.com Corner of Calle Choquechaca & Atocsaycuchi, Cusco
Tastefully decorated rooms.
from US$92 [photos]

Casa Andina Classic Cusco San Blas

www.casa-andina.com Calle Chihuampata 278, Cusco
A sprawling colonial building built around a large open-air stone courtyard located in a quiet part of San Blas
from US$92 [photos]

Casa Andina Cusco Koricancha

www.casa-andina.com Calle San Agustin 371, Cusco
Casa Andina is Peruvian chain of hotels. Comfortable rooms and modern facilities.
from US$92 [photos]

Hotel Los Marqueses

www.hotelmarqueses.com Calle Garcilaso 256, Cusco
A beautiful 16th century colonial building that has been recently restored and refurbished
from US$90 [photos]

Loreto Boutique Hotel Cusco

www.loretoboutiquehotel.com Calle Loreto 115, Plaza de Armas, Cusco
Located just off the main plaza, adjacent to the main church. Some of the rooms have original Inca walls.
from US$90 [photos]

Hilton Garden Inn

http://hiltongardeninn3.hilton.com/en/hotels/peru/ Santa Ana, Avenida Apurimac 207, Cusco
from US$89 [photos]

Pension Alemana B&B Hotel

www.pension-alemana-cuzco.com Calle Tandapata 260, San Blas, Cusco
Translated roughly as “German Guesthouse” this small attractive hostal is located in the backstreets of the San Blas district of Cusco
from US$79 [photos]

Tierra Viva Cusco Centro

http://tierravivahoteles.com/tierra-viva-cusco-centro/ Calle Cruz Verde 390, Cusco
from US$79 [photos]

Hotel Casona Les Pleiades

www.casona-pleiades.com Calle Tandapata 116, San Blas, Cusco
Renovated in 2005 this small privately run hotel still retains its original colonial characteristics and charm
from US$70 [photos]

Hostal Corihuasi

www.corihuasi.com Calle Suecia 561, San Blas, Cusco
Hostal Corihuasi is a nicely restored 18th century house located up on a hill, not far from the Plaza de Armas
from US$68 [photos]

Hotel San Juan de Dios Cusco

www.hotelsanjuandedios.com Avenida Manzanares 264, Urbanizacion Manuel Prado (about 150m off Avenida de la Cultura between blocks 15 & 16), Cusco
Quiet and friendly hostal, run as part of a non-profit organisation that helps fund the San Juan de Dios hospital for disabled kids (next door)
from US$65 [photos]

Hostal Madre Tierra

www.hostalmadretierra.com/en Calle Atoqsaycuchi 647-A, San Blas, Cusco.
from US$63 [photos]

Andenes de Saphi

www.andenesdesaphi.com Calle Saphi 848, Cusco
Comfortable 3 star hostal.
from US$55 [photos]

Amaru Hostal

www.amaruhostal.com Cuesta San Blas, Cusco
2 blocks from the main square close to the artists district of San Blas (opposite Hostal San Blas). Gardens. Popular.
from US$60 [photos]

El Balcon

www.balconcusco.com Tambo de Montero 222, Cusco
3 blocks from the main Plaza de Armas, this attractively renovated building is built on a hill, offering a great panoramic view of the city of Cusco. Popular. Friendly and helpful staff.
from US$59 [photos]

Casa del Campo

www.hotelcasadecampo.com Calle Tandapata 296-298, San Blas, Cusco
Set in the traditional picturesque neighbourhood of San Blas, overlooking Cusco, all rooms have great views. 15 minute walk uphill from Plaza. Web site and language school.
from US$46 [photos]

Ninos Hotel

www.ninoshotel.com Calle Meloq 442, Cusco
Run as part of Dutch Foundation Ninos Unidos Peruanos, all profits are invested in projects to help street children.
from US$50 [photos]

Recommended Hotels in Cusco (Budget)

Hostal Pakcha Real

www.hostalpakchareal.com Calle Tandapata 300, San Blas, Cusco.
Family run hostal located in the narrow backstreets of the San Blas district.
from US$28 [photos]

Hostal Suecia II

www.hostalsuecia2cusco.com Calle tecsecocha 465, Cusco
Centrally located, beautiful building, good meeting place for trekkers doing the Inca Trail. Reservations by phone only.
from US$19 [photos]

Loki Hostel Cusco

www.lokihostel.com/cusco Cuesta Santa Ana 601, Santa Ana, Cusco
Loki is one of the best backpackers hostals in Cusco.
Dormitory rooms from just US$10. Doubles from US$32 [photos]

The Point Hostel Cusco

www.thepointhostels.com Meson de Estrella 172, Cusco
“Party Hostels for Backpackers” is how they describe themselves. Dorm rooms and rooms with shared bathrooms only.
dorms from US$8 [photos]


 

Recommended Cafes & Coffee Shops in Cusco

La Valeriana – Café & Bakery (La Merced)

Portal Espinar 180, Cusco. Open 7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun. Located facing La Merced Church, this café has an excellent selection of freshly baked cakes & pastries, good coffees, delicious sandwiches and lunches including a good lasagne. Empanadas are also good. Free WiFi. You can sit outside on the terrace. There are two La Valeriana Cafes in Cusco, both under the same management, (see below for info on the one in Avenida Sol) and the food is equally good but this one opposite the La Merced church is the newest and probably my favorite due to being away from the traffic and having a more relaxed feel about it especially when sitting outside.

Jack’s Cafe

www.jackscafecusco.com Calle Choquechaca 509, Cusco – at the crossroads with Cuesta San Blas. Open 7.30am-11.30pm daily. Always very popular with frequent queues of people waiting to get in during the high season. Great selection of breakfasts, fresh juices blended with herbs. Generous portions. Relaxed. Friendly service.

Cafe El Ayllu

Calle Almagro 133 & Calle Marques 263, Cusco. open 6.30am-10pm Mon-Sat, 6.30am-1pm Sun. One of the oldest and most traditional cafés in Cusco, popular with the locals. Old fashioned with suit-clad waiters some of whom have worked there for decades. Good selection of breakfasts including the filling Cusqueño breakfast, fresh juices. Great apple pastries. Sandwich de Cerdo (pork sandwich) recommended. Calming atmosphere with classical music, quick service.

La Bondiet – Café & Tea Room

Calle Heladeros 118 (opposite and a bit higher up from the La Merced Church), Cusco. Very clean, great selection of sweet & savoury pastries, sandwiches and excellent fruit salads. Breakfasts. Don’t forget the ice-cream sundaes and great selection of milkshakes. The café at Plaza Espinar is a popular meeting place for some of the older retired locals particularly the ladies. They also have another coffee shop in Calle Plateros 363.

Museo del Café (Coffee Museum)

www.museodelcafecusco.com Calle Espaderos 136, Cusco. This is a quirky little café coffee shop just half a clock from the Plaza de Armas which also doubles as a coffee museum & shop with information about the history and production of coffee. They also hold coffee making workshops where you get to select and roast your own beans – great fun particularly on a rainy day. Although small the place is cozy with good wifi and friendly staff. Sometimes they have a real fire burning. As you would expect there are plenty of different coffees to choose from as well as a bar – the pisco coffee is recommended. Try the Museum breakfast – a bowl of baby spinach and greens topped with a poached egg, The granola and yoghurt with honey is also great. Fresh juices are served. Also well recommended is the mango chicken sandwich.

Cafeteria Siete & Siete (Café 7&7)

www.cafeteria7y7cusco.com Calle Tandapata 260, San Blas, Cusco (same place as Pension Aleman Bed & Breakfast). Open 10am-2pm 4-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun.

This 3rd-story café has superb views over the city especially in the evening, worth climbing the stairs for. Relaxed chilled atmosphere, selection of German cakes, ice-cream sundaes, coffees and fresh juices. Excellent quinoa salad. Soups, sandwiches, burger, pastas. Named 7&7 because the café is located on the corner of two streets called “7 Angelitos” (7 little angels) and “7 Diablitos” (7 little devils), hence the fun theme of Angels & Devils which decorate the place. German owners, friendly & helpful staff. Very clean.

The Meeting Place

Plazoleta San Blas 630, Cusco www.themeetingplacecusco.com (link removed due to malware threat)

Great little cafe in the corner of Plazoleta San Blas. Freshly made cakes, American-style breakfasts, large waffles, burgers, sandwiches, great milkshakes, fresh fruit salad & yoghurt. Good sized portions. . Free WiFi. British-Peruvian owned. The Meeting Place aims to use 100% of the profits to help projects in the local community. Friendly mainly volunteer staff. Upstairs is a great place to sit in the window and watch the world go by in the Plaza below.

Starbucks

Calle Loreto, Plaza de Armas, Cusco (just to left of alleyway left of the Compania Church) . Worth mentioning for visitors who are already feeling homesick for their daily caffeine fix and also for one of the best views out over the Plaza de Armas. Popular with visitors and locals alike.

La Valeriana – Café & Bakery (Avenida Sol)

Avenida El Sol 576, Cusco. Open 7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun. Located facing the Jardin Sagrado (Sacred Garden) adjacent to the Qoricancha Temple of the Sun, this bakery & café has an excellent selection of freshly baked cakes & pastries, good coffees, delicious sandwiches and lunches including a good lasagne. Empanadas are also good. Free unreliable WiFi, service can be a little slow at times. You can sit outside on the terrace and watch the world go by but be prepared to get hassled by street vendors and musicians.

Los Perros Couch Bar

Calle

El Hada Cafe (recently closed)

Qanchipata 596 (On the corner of Carmen Alto & Siete Angelitos), San Blas. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Closed Sun. www.elhada.com Recently closed down, will keep you informed if we hear any news.

Cafe Dos x 3

Calle Marquez 271, Cusco. Nothing fancy, more like a hole in the wall (small & cozy) but they know how to knock out a great little expresso and other coffees. This is a local café with a few tourists stumbling in by accident from time to time or when looking for shelter during the rain. This café is more of an institution in Cusco, it’s been around for more than 20 years. The name Dos x 3 literally translates as two by three which has always confused me. Only recently I found out 2×3 means “done quickly” or “right away” which should signify its lightening fast service! Snacks are simple but well priced compared to the fancier places around. Granola and fruit salad breakfast, grilled cheese and ham toastie, even coffee to go. For those with a sweeter tooth try the tres leches, the pie de limon (lemon meringue pie) or the carrot cake and apple pie with ice cream.

Cappuccino Cafe

www.cappuccinocusco.com Portal Comercio 141, Plaza de Armas, Cusco

Deli Monasterio

www.belmond.com/hotel-monasterio-cusco/restaurants-in-cusco Calle Palacio 136, (Plaza Nazarenas), Cusco

Creperia La Boheme

www.labohemecusco.com Carmen Alto 283, San Blas, Cusco


 

Best Restaurants in Cusco (expensive)

Limo

www.cuscorestaurants.com/limo/ (Nouveau Andino) Portal de Carnes 236, 2nd floor, Plaza de Armas, Cusco open 11am-11pm Mon-Sat
Named after the ‘ El Aji Limo” chilli used in making ceviche the Limo Restaurant & Pisco Bar serves up a Peruvian/Japanese fusion of seafood and traditional dishes with a modern twist. Dishes include Sushi, Octopus ceviche, and a delicious tuna tartare. You must also try one of their speciality pisco-based cocktails. One of the best locations in Cusco, Limo is on the 2nd floor with stunning views of the Plaza de Armas. Beautifully decorated, a bit on the pricey side but you’re worth it.
[photos]

Cicciolina

www.cicciolinacuzco.com/ (Mediterranean / Tapas) Calle Triunfo 393, 2nd floor, Cusco
Nicely decorated, Spanish / Italian / Mediterranean cuisine, beautifully presented. Nice atmosphere, sophisticated. Separate bar menu includes tapas. A little on the expensive side but overall good value. Go on treat yourself. Recommended. Reservations are a must May to September.

MAP Cafe

www.cuscorestaurants.com/map-cafe-por-coque-ossio/ (International/Criollo/Nouveau-Andino) Casa Cabrera, Plaza Nazarenas 231, Cusco.
[photos]

Le Soleil

www.restaurantelesoleilcusco.com Calle San Agustin 275, Cusco Open 12.30-3pm & 7-10.30pm Thurs-Tues. Closed on Wednesdays.
Traditional gourmet French cuisine including French snails in a parsley and garlic sauce, duck foi gras. Recommended is the Andean trout filet, baby lamb chops and the superb Tournedos Rossini (beef tenderloin, foie gras and celery puree). French wine by the glass or bottle. Quality dining. Dig deep as prices are quite expensive. Cash or Visa only.

Restaurant Illariy

www.belmond.com/hotel-monasterio-cusco/restaurants-in-cusco (Monasterio Hotel) Monasterio del Cusco Hotel (Andean/International)Calle Palacios 136, Plazoleta Nazarenas, Cusco. Great food in an old converted monastery. Main courses for about US$20. Great atmosphere and service worth treating yourself to.

Senzo

www.belmond.com/palacio-nazarenas-cusco/cusco-restaurants (Palacio Nazarenas Hotel) Palacio Nazarenas Hotel (Andean/International)Calle Palacios 144, Plazoleta Nazarenas, Cusco. Stylish restaurant located in the luxury Palacio Nazarenas Hotel. Beautiful surroundings overlooking the hotel’s outdoor pool.

Inca Grill

www.cuscorestaurants.com/inkagrill/ (International/Criollo/Nouveau-Andino) Portal de Panes 115, Plaza de Armas, Cusco. Tel 262992The menu includes a wide range of typical and international dishes including vegetarian dishes. Elegant folk shows are put on each evening. Reservations are a good idea. Open Mon-Sun 11am-11:30pm
[photos]

Chicha

www.chicha.com.pe/en/cusco (Nouveau Andino) Plaza Regocijo 261, 2nd floor, Cusco. Open 12-10.30pm Mon-Sun.Peru’s celebrity chef Gaston Acurio’s new venture in Cusco. Open-kitchen, tasteful modern decor, very attentive service. Peruvian cuisine with a modern twist. On the whole the food is good value but the wines can be very expensive.

Divina Comedia

www.restaurantcusco.com (International/Nouveau-Andino) Pumacurco 406, Cusco. (Up the hill from Plaza Nazarenas)

Pacha Papa

www.cuscorestaurants.com/pachapapa/ (Andean/International) Plazoleta San Blas 120, Cusco.

Baco Wine Bar & Restaurant

www.cicciolinacuzco.com/ Calle Ruinas 465 Tel 242808,relaxing atmosphere

Greens Organic

www.cuscorestaurants.com/greens-organics/ Santa Catalina Angosta 165, 2nd floor (corner of the Plaza de armas), CuscoLooking for a healthy all-organic place to it then Greens is the place for you. Bright and colourful restaurant located in the corner of the Plaza de Armas, 2nd floor to the right side of Paddy’s Irish bar. As you would expect there is a great selection of salads. Recommended are the quinoa soup, trout & mango ceviche, grilled alpaca medallion. Also serve sandwiches. Book in advance for evening tables.
[photos]

Incanto

www.cuscorestaurants.com/incanto/ (Italian) Santa Catalina Angosta 165 (corner of the Plaza de Armas), Cusco tel 084 254753
[photos]

A Mi Manera

www.cuscorestaurant-amimanera.com/en/ (International/Criollo/Nouveau-Andino) Calle Triunfo 393, 2nd floor, Tel 222219Swiss managed restaurant combining typical local foods with international cuisine (NovoAndino). Recently refurbished. Nice interior design with a spotlessly clean open kitchen. Friendly relaxed atmosphere, well recommended.

Fallen Angel

http://www.fallenangelincusco.com (International) Plazoleta Nazarenas 221 Tel: 258184

Tunupa

(International/Criollo/Nouveau-Andino) Portal Confituria 233, Plaza de Armas

Best Restaurants in Cusco (mid-range)

Jack’s Cafe

Corner of Cuesta San Blas and Choquechaca. Tel: 806960 Good selection of snacks and dishes, generous portions, well presented. Nice decor, relaxed atmosphere. Well recommended. Great English full breakfast served all day. Other dishes include houmus and ciabatta bread, French fries and guacamole, Jack’s antipasto (selection of yummy things), veggie burgers and home-made soups. All freshly made in the smallest kitchen in Cusco!!

La Bodega 138

(Italian) Herrajes 138, Cusco open 6.30-11pm Mon-Sat La Bodega is a laid back Italian restaurant that serves up a great thin crust pizza cooked in a traditional adobe fired oven. The pastas are good and they offer some nice fresh organic salads. Its a tad on the expensive side but the atmosphere is friendly. Sometimes a freshly baked pizza, a cold beer and some good company are the only things that count. Cash only.

Kusikuy

(Andean/International) Calle Suecia 339, Tel: 292870 (Quechua for happy guinea pig!) excellent place to try out typical Peruvian dishes including the house speciality ‘cuy al horno’ (baked guinea pig) which emerges from the oven amidst the flashing of cameras and squeals of delight or disgust. Good service.

Chez Maggy

(Italian) Calle Plateros 339, Tel 23 4861Freshly baked pizzas made in traditional wood burning oven. Pastas and soups. Good atmosphere, long tables bring you jostling elbow to elbow with other travellers.

Kintaro

(Japanese) Calle Plateros 326, 2nd Floor, Cusco. Open midday-3.30pm & 6.30-10pm Mon-Sat. Serving Sushi & Saki but plenty more besides.

Best Restaurants in Cusco (budget)

Granja Heidi

Cuesta San Blas 525, (2nd floor), Cusco. Tel: 238383 Highly recommended. Very clean with spotless toilets. Granja Heidi (Heidi’s Farm) offers fresh, nutritious meals as well as wholesome breakfasts. They also have a great 4 course set meal at lunchtime for US$7. Spacious with plenty of natural light. Becoming very popular so it is a good idea to book a table in the evenings. Good selection of vegetarian meals including delicious stuffed peppers.

Mr. Soup

Calle Saphi 448, Cusco (follow Calle Plateros along to the end, 5 mins from main square). Open midday-10pm Tues-Sun The place to go for a huge bowl of soup. Quinoa soup yes please. Japanese curry soup with udon noodles (veggy) delicious, comforting chicken soup, tomato, creamy pumkin, so many to choose from. Served with freshly baked bread. Soup, soup, soup. Thank you Mr Soup, great value.

La Quinta Eulalia

(Andean) Tel: 224951 Choquechaka 384, If you want to experience a real Cusquenan restaurant pay a visit to La Quinta Eulalia. It has outdoor tented seating, local dishes including guinea pig, traditional music and home brewed chicha. An experience you’ll remember. Open only for lunch 11am-5pm

Restaurants in Cusco (Fast Food)

Well these fast food restaurants don’t exactly fall into the best restaurants category but we’ve included them just in case you are feeling a little homesick or need to pile back on the weight after all that exercise

MacDonalds

(Fast Food) 1st floor, Portal de Carnes, Plaza de Armas, Cusco (far left corner of the Plaza when looking at the cathedral), www.mcdonalds.com.pe MacDonalds have more than 25 restaurants in Lima and just one in Cusco which conveniently located in the Plaza de Armas. Due to planning regulations it tries its hardest to blend in with the local architecture so its not as easy to find as you’d expect. Popular with the locals just as much as with the tourists.

KFC

(Fast Food) Portal de Carnes, Plaza de Armas, Cusco, www.kfc.com.pe Kentucky Fried Chicken has restaurants throughout Peru including 2 in Cusco. The easiest to find is in the Plaza de Armas.

Bembos

(Fast Food) Plaza de Armas, Cusco www.bembos.com.pe Peruvian fast food chain with restaurants throughout Peru offering burgers, chicken, french fries, milkshakes, salads, etc. Several burger menus have a Peruvian twist.

Burger King

(Fast Food) Real Plaza Shopping Centre (located out of town)

China Wok

(Fast Food) Real Plaza Shopping Centre (located out of town)


 

Cusco Bars, Pubs & Clubs

Paddy Flaherty’s Irish Bar

www.paddysirishbarcusco.com Corner of Calle Triunfo 124, Plaza de Armas, just to the right of the Cathedral.Irish bar Paddy Flaherty’s is situated just across the road from the Cathedral. It’s small and welcoming and has great views of the Plaza de Armas. Prides itself in being the highest Irish-owned pub in the world. You can watch rugby and other sports on cable TV. As you would expect you can buy Guinness (draught cans) but it comes at a price but well worth it. Serves good food, shepherds pie & chicken soup recommended. Open daily noon – 1am. Happy hour 7-8 pm. and 10-10:30 pm.

Museo del Pisco (Pisco Museum) – Bar / restaurant

www.museodelpisco.org Calle Santa Catalina Ancha 398 (corner with Calle San Agustin), Cusco. Open 11am-1am.Museo del Pisco is a great place to discover Pisco, Peru’s national drink with all it’s wide and wonderful variations. Pisco is a kind of white brandy made from grapes and produced only in Peru. ACCEPT NO CHILEAN IMITATIONS. Pisco Sour is the national cocktail and shouldn’t be missed, Chilcano is another Peruvian favourite or are you brave enough to try Pisco straight. Museo del Pisco is nicely decorated, friendly with a cool vibe. Overpriced maybe but good fun and a must-visit when in Cusco. They also serve food, tapas are delicious and take the edge off an empty stomach, as well as more substantial mains. The staff are just crazy/passionate about Pisco and happy to educate you in. Pisco tasting sessions. Live music most nights. Oh by the way, it’s not an actual museum!

Cross Keys Pub

Calle Triunfo 350 (down the road to the right of the Cathedral), Cusco Cusco’s original pub soon fills up with travelers and expats enjoying the atmosphere of a traditional English pub. You can play darts or watch European football on cable TV. Serves bar snacks such a pizzas, lasagne, Mexican chili and a good chicken curry. Owned by Barry Walker, Peru’s expert ornithologist and owner of Manu Expeditions. Open 11am. – 1am. Happy hour 6 -7 pm. and 9 – 9:30 pm.

Los Perros Couch Bar

Teqsicocha 436 This friendly couch-bar is a great place to meet up with friends. Full of comfy sofas, magazines and board games as well as tasty snacks, coffee and alcoholic drinks. Open daily 11am – 1am.

Norton Pub (Norton Rat’s Tavern)

Corner of Santa Catalina Angosta and the Plaza de Armas This bar appeals to both travellers and locals alike. It has great balconies giving great view of the Plaza de Armas, ideal to people-watch. You can also get snacks including excellent burgers. Darts and pool. Cable TV showing plenty of sports. Open daily 7am-1am. Happy hour 7-9 pm.

Km0 (San Blas)

Calle Tandapata 100, San Blas, Cusco. open 6pm-2am ish Small and cozy cafe-restaurant–bar-club. Km0 (kilometre zero) has a bit of everything. Good Thai food served in the evening as well as Peruvian dishes, live music every evening 10.30pm-midnight, open until early hours of the morning until the last person leaves. Happy hour 9pm-midnight.

Discotheques & Nightclubs in Cusco

Ukukus Discotheque

www.ukukusbar.com Calle Plateros 316, 2nd floor, CuscoOne of the best and most popular clubs in Cusco, Ukukus attracts a good mixture of travellers and locals. Live music every night at 10:30 pm. The dance floor is always packed as the DJ plays a good selection of music including rock, pop, salsa and techno. Good fun for all ages. Live music most nights. A good selection of movies are shown in the afternoon. Open 4 pm till 5 am. Entrance is free before 11 pm with a pass obtained from the girls on the corner of the Plaza de Armas and Plateros. Otherwise S/ 10 cover including drink. Happy hour 8-10.30pm.

Mama Africa

Discotheque Portal de Panes 109, 3rd floor, Plaza de Armas (near the corner with Calle Plateros), Cusco An interesting mix of backpackers and young Peruvians, Mama Africa is one of Cusco’s most popular discos. Playing a mix of reggae, rock, techno with a bit of salsa thrown in for good measure. Lively and friendly staff make it a good place to visit even if you’re traveling alone – you won’t be for long in Mama Africa. The 2nd floor bar/club called Mushrooms is also worth a look-in playing more house and electro. Entrance is free before 11 pm with pass obtained from girls on corner of Plaza de Armas and Plateros. Otherwise S/ 10 cover including drink. Live music at weekends. Happy hour 8 – 9:30 pm.

Inkateam

Portal de Carnes 298, Plaza de Armas, Cusco Blasting out everything from reggae, techno & electro to salsa & merengue. Lively club popular with locals and tourists alike. Chill-out lounge upstairs, usually too loud to chat. Happy hour 9pm-midnight. Happy hour 9pm – midnight, free salsa classes every night 9-11pm


 

Trekking Companies in Cusco

SAS Travel

www.sastravelperu.com Calle Garcilaso 270, Cusco.Full range of treks available. Largest of the trekking tour operators in Cusco offering a good quality service. One of the few companies to offer daily Inca trail departures. Recommended.

Peru Treks

www.perutreks.com Avenida Pardo 540, Cusco. Open 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, Closed Sun. Inca Trail specialists with departures on Monday, Wednesday and Friday throughout the year. They also run a homestay program where you can stay with families in mountain villages and experience their culture. Contribute towards local community projects. Recommended.

Andina Travel

www.andinatravel.com Plazoleta Santa Catalina 219, Cusco Recommended for their Lares Valley trek. Also offer the Inca Trail, Ausangate & Choquequirao. Recommended.

Enigma

www.enigmaperu.com Located out of town. Calle Fortunato L. Herrera 214, Urb. Magisterial, 1a Etapa, Cusco Quality tour operator offering the Inca Trail and other treks including Ausangate and Valley of Lares. Recommended.

Wayki Trek

www.waykitrek.net Calle Quera 239, Cusco Offering limited number of trek departures on the Inca Trail . Recommended.

Llama Path

www.llamapath.com Calle San Juan de Dios 250, Cusco. Variety of treks and tours.

***Click here for a comprehensive list of all licensed Inca Trail trekking companies***

Cusco Traditional Tours (Cusco City Tour , Sacred Valley etc)

Orellana Tours

www.orellanatour.com Calle Garcilaso 206, Cusco. Well recommended for days tours around Cusco and the Sacred Valley as well as the 1 day tour bt train to Machu Picchu

SAS Travel

www.sastravelperu.com Calle Garcilaso 270, Cusco

Rafting Companies in Cusco

Amazonas Explorer

www.amazonas-explorer.com Located out of town at Avenida Collasuyu 910 Miravalle, Cusco. Book online. Specialists in rafting expeditions combined with trekking. Top quality equipment and guides. Operates fixed departure dates for the Apurimac as well the Rio Cotahuasi in Arequipa. Very professional. Recommended

Apumayo Expeditions

www.apumayo.com Located out of town at Jiron Ricardo Palma N-11, Urb. Santa Monica, Cusco. Book online. Responsible tour operator. Regularly participates in river clean up activities. Rafting trips on the Urubamba, Apurimac and Tambopata. Recommended.

River Explorers

www.riverexplorers.com Located out of town at Urb. Kennedy A, B-15, Cusco. Book online Popular rafting outfitter offering trips on the Rio Apurimac.

Mayuc

www.mayuc.com Portal Confiturias 211, Plaza de Armas, Cusco

KB Tambo Tours (Ollantaytambo)

http://kbperu.com KB Tambo Hostal, Calle Principal Ollantaytambo (High Street). Can organize rafting trips locally with a minimum of 4 persons. Mountain

Biking Companies in Cusco

Amazonas Explorer

www.amazonas-explorer.com Located out of town at Avenida Collasuyu 910 Miravalle, Cusco. Book online.
Professional tour operator offering a good selection of mountain biking tours including 12 days Mike Titicaca to Machu Picchu. The 4 day Bike to Manu is a superb route. Several half day trips around Cusco and a popular 1 day Bike Moray & Maras.

Enigma

www.enigmaperu.com Located out of town at Calle Fortunato L. Herrera 214, Urb. Magisterio 1a etapa, Cusco
Quality tour operator offering several Mountain biking routes around Cusco including a 4 day Cusco to Manu Jungle trip and a 2 day Lares Valley route.

KB Tambo Tours (Ollantaytambo)

http://kbperu.com KB Tambo Hostal, Calle Principal Ollantaytambo (High Street).

Sacred Wheels (Urubamba)

www.sacredwheels.com Located in Urubamba in the sacred Valley
Relatively new companies specialising in mountain biking trips in the Sacred Valley including Chinchero, Maras & Moray, Salineras and Pisac.

Many tour operators offer a half day Maras & Moray biking trip which is an excellent place to start.

Horseback Riding Trips

Perol Chico (Urubamba)

www.perolchico.com Urubamba This excellent well-established ranch and riding stables near Urubamba in the Sacred Valley is run by Dutch-Peruvian Eduard van Brunschot and his wife Maria Zans Gamarra. They offer several horseback riding tours on Peruvian paso horses. Itineraries range from 2 days rides (Salineras, Maras & Moray) including meals and accommodation as well as longer tours up to 11 days.

Cusco For You (Urubamba)

www.cuscoforyou.com Urubamba Ranch is located just outside Urubamba about 4km along the road to Ollantaytambo. You will have to cross the Urubamba River on a small footbridge. This is the path that takes you up to the Salineras (Maras Salt Pans). The ranch is about 400m after the bridge Cusco For You offer horseback riding day trips to the Saneras, Maras & Moray as well as longer trips. They also offer accommodation and other activities in the area such as mountain biking and hiking.

Amazon Rainforest – Manu Tour Operators

Pantiacolla Tours

www.pantiacolla.com Calle Garcilaso 265, Interior patio, 2nd floor office 12, Cusco. Tel 084 238323 Open 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat, Closed Sun.Camping tours to Manu run by Dutch biologist.

Manu Expeditions

www.manuexpeditions.com Jiron Los Geranios 2-G, Urbinizacion Mariscal Gammara 1ro Etapa, Cusco. Tel 084 225990Owned by ornithologist Barry Walker, part owners of the Manu Wildlife Center, they offer 4-9 day trips to Manu in Safari camps and lodges and specialize in bird watching trips.

Manu Nature Tours

www.manuperu.com Avenida Pardo 1046, Cusco. Tel 084 252721Run lodge-based trips and are owners of Manu Lodge. Recommended for experiencing the jungle in comfort.

InkaNatura

www.inkanatura.com Offices in USA and Lima.Trips to Manu. Part-owners of the Manu Wildlife center.

SAS Travel

www.sastravelperumanu.com Calle Garcilaso 270, Cusco. Tel 084 249194Well-established adventure tour operator offering trips to Manu, small group sizes.

Expediciones Vilca

www.manuvilcaperu.com Calle Plateros 359 (just off the Plaza de Armas), Cusco Tel 084 244751Budget tours to Manu of mixed quality.

Amazon Rainforest – Tambopata Tour Operators

Rainforest Expeditions

www.perunature.com They operate tours to their two lodges in the rainforest of Tambopata; the Posada Amazonas Lodge and the Tambopata Research Center (TRC).

Explorers Inn

www.explorersinn.com Own and operate the Explorer’s Inn jungle lodge on the Tambopata River.

EcoAmazonia

www.ecoamazonia.com Lodge Operate daily tours to their jungle lodge.

Train Tickets Cusco to Machu Picchu

Peru Rail

www.perurail.com Portal de Carnes 214, Plaza de Armas, Cusco or Plaza Regocijo 202, Cusco. Open 7am-10pm Privatized rail company owned by the same company as 5-star hotel Monasterio and Machu Picchu Sanctuary hotel outside the ruins at Machu Picchu. PeruRail also have offices at Lima Airport (National Departures, 2nd floor, between Gates 13 and 14 open 4am-8pm) and also at the LarcoMar Shopping Center in Miraflores open 11am-10pm.

Inca Rail

www.incarail.com Portal de Panes 105, Plaza de Armas, Cusco


 

Cusco Getting There & Away

Cusco to Machu Picchu

Detailed information about getting from Cusco to Machu Picchu is covered elsewhere in this website. Just follow the links below to the relevant pages

Cusco to Machu Picchu by Train

Trekking to Machu Picchu

Cusco to Lima

Flying between Cusco and Lima takes about one hour and is by far the easiest way to travel. Basically the high mountainous Andes lie directly between these two cities so you either fly over them or take a long winding detour around them. The bus route is usually southwards towards Lake Titicaca then westwards towards Arequipa. You then follow the Pan-American highway northwards via Nasca and Pisco to Lima. This is a good option if you have plenty of days to break up the journey by possibly visiting the Lake Titicaca, Arequipa, Nasca and the Ballestas Islands on the way to Lima. If you don’t have long in Peru and you don’t want to spend a day and two nights on a bus then take a flight. There is a more recent road connecting these two cities that goes westwards from Cusco to Abancay and Nasca and then north to Lima. This route is particularly scenic and mountainous and remains in the category of ‘adventure travel’.

Flights Cusco to Lima (1 hour 15 mins)

There are more than 30 daily flights between Cusco and Lima. Most flights depart in the mornings because the weather is usually better and the pilot needs to see where he is going as he navigates a few tricky mountains after taking off from Cusco. The views out of the right hand windows are particularly good of snow-capped Salkantay about 10 minutes after take-off but you can’t always decide which seat you get allocated. The flight time is about 1 hour 15 minutes. If you really can’t afford to miss you flight then we suggest taking one of the early flights before 09:30 since later flights often get delayed or cancelled particularly during the wet season in the highlands (January to March). Airline companies operating this route include LATAM www.latam.com, Avianca www.avianca.com, Peruvian Airlines www.peruvian.pe, StarPeru www.starperu.com and LCPeru www.lcperu.pe (for more details see our web page Domestic Flights)

Bus Cusco to Lima (20 hours via Abancay or 24 hours via Arequipa)

There are two routes from Cusco to Lima. The quickest and more direct route is west to Nazca via Abancay and then north up along the Pacific coast to Lima (1500 kms and takes about 20 hours) This is the most popular route during the dry season when the roads are good (May-Sept). Outside the dry season the roads can become impassable die to heavy rains and landslides with frequent long delays. It’s best to avoid the route altogether from December to March. However when the weather is good this is a stunning ride with magnificent scenery but the road has many sharp and dangerous curves so it could really be classed as an adventure activity and not for the faint hearted.

The altrenative, and longer route, that many bus companies offer goes to Arequipa first (1015 km and another 15 hrs) where you will have to take a connecting bus on to Cusco (500 km & 10 hrs). There may be very long periods between these connecting buses and you will probably have to change bus so even if the connection is fairly quick the entire trip can take around 24 hours. Quite often you will find that the bus from Lima to Arequipa travels overnight (to avoid the high temperatures during the day) arriving early in the morning. The onwards bus to Cusco may also depart in the evening and arrive early in the morning in Cusco, allowing you to spend all day visiting Arequipa. You can store your bags at the bus station in Arequipa but always take your valuables with you. Bus companies operating this route include Cruz de Sur www.cruzdelsur.com and Ormeño www.grupo-ormeno.com

Bus companies worth checking out (listed in the order that I would choose):

Cusco to Puno

Puno is 388km from Cusco. You can travel by bus, train or plane. If travelling overland remember to take plenty of warm clothes with you especially if travelling at night since it can get very cold.

Flights Cusco to Puno (45 mins)

There are two direct flight per day from Cusco (CUZ) to Juliaca (JUL) (about 20 km from Puno) and that’s with LATAM Airlines www.latam.com. Departures are in the morning when the weather is usually better. The flight time is about 45 minutes. If you are desperate to fly then you can get flights to Juliaca via Lima but the flight time is more than 4 hours.

Bus Cusco to Puno (7 hours)

(i) Local tourist bus
There are many daily buses leaving for Puno. The journey takes about 7 hours (longer in the wet season). Price are about US$10 depending on the service. Some companies depart in the morning and arrive in Puno late in the afternoon while others depart in the evening and arrive in Puno early in the morning. If you find yourself in Puno as early at 04:00 or 05:00 you can ask the driver to stay on the bus and get some rest until a more reasonable hour (07:00). Buses depart from the main bus station known as the ‘Terminal Terreste’ which is a 10 minute taxi ride from the main plaza. Don’t try to walk from your hotel. Our best advice is to take a taxi down to the bus station the day before you want to travel and book your ticket. This will also give you the opportunity to check out the buses and the various services on offer.

Bus companies include:

Imexso
offices at the Cusco bus station. Tickets from around US$20 standard service
Website: www.perucuzco.com/imexsotours/

Turismo Mer
offices at the Cusco bus station. Tickets from around US$20 standard service
Website: www.turismomer.com

Tour Peru
offices at the Cusco bus station. Tickets from around US$20 standard service
Website: www.tourperu.com.pe

Cruz del Sur
offices at the Cusco bus station. Tickets from around US$20 standard service
Website: www.cruzdelsur.com

(ii) Special tourist bus
As well as the regular local buses between Cusco and Puno there are also a couple of companies that offer a better quality package service. These services usually include a guide on the bus and the bus stops at several places of interest on the way and often include a buffet lunch – check each bus company for details. Tickets for most of the services below can be bought through most travel agents in Cusco one or two days in advance. Make sure you get a written receipt that lists the price you paid and all services included.

Inca Express
Tickets from US$65: US$50 (tourist bus & buffet lunch) + US$15 entrance fees to places of interest along the way.
www.inkaexpressbus.com

Imexso
offices at the Cusco bus station. Tickets from US$ (tourist bus)
www.perucuzco.com/imexsotours/

Turismo Mer
offices at the Cusco bus station. Tickets from US$60: US$45 (tourist bus & buffet lunch) + US$15 entrance fees to places of interest along the way.
www.turismomer.com

Tour Peru
offices at the Cusco bus station. Tickets from US$? (tourist bus)
www.tourperu.com.pe

Cusco to Puno by Train

Trains for Arequipa depart from Wanchac station at the end of Avenida Sol (open Mon-Fri 07:00 – 12:00 and 14:00 – 17:00, Sat 07:00 – 12:00, Sun 08:00 – 10:00). Reservations should be made well in advance. For up-to-date timetables and prices visit the PeruRail web site www.perurail.com

Cusco to Arequipa

Arequipa is 500 km by road from Cusco. You can travel by bus or plane. If travelling overland remember to take plenty of warm clothes with you especially if travelling at night since it can get very cold particularly during the month June, July and August.

Flights Cusco to Arequipa (45 mins for a direct flight)

There are a couple of daily flights from Cusco to Arequipa. Departures are in the morning when the weather is usually better (Pilots need good visibility to take off in Cusco). The flight time is about 45 minutes. Airline companies operating this route include LATAM www.latam.com (for more details see our web page Domestic Flights)

Bus Cusco to Arequipa (from 10 hours)

There are many daily buses leaving for Arequipa. The fastest bus service takes about 10 hours (longer in the wet season). Some companies depart in the morning and arrive in Arequipa early in the evening while others depart in the evening and arrive in Arequipa early in the morning. Buses depart from the main bus station known as the ‘Terminal Terreste’ which is a 10 minute taxi ride from the main plaza. Don’t try to walk. Our best advice is to take a taxi down to the bus station the day before you want to travel and book your ticket. This will also give you the opportunity to check out the buses and the various services on offer.

Bus companies worth checking out (listed in the order that I would choose):

Cusco to Arequipa by Train

The train no longer runs between Cusco and Arequipa (2005) except for freight and some special charter services.


 

The Inca Trail & Other Treks

Treks to Machu Picchu (quick summary)

There are 5 main treks to Machu Picchu and its easy to get confused and end up buying the wrong trek by accident. There are 3 versions of the Inca Trail: the Classic 4-day Inca Trail, the shorter 2-day Inca Trail and the longer and more difficult Salkantay 7-day Inca Trail, all shown in green on the map below. All 3 Inca Trail treks pass through the Inca ruins at Wiñay Wayna and then continue to the Sun Gate (Inti Punku) before descending to Machu Picchu. The numbers of trekkers on these routes are tightly controlled and trek permits must be bought well in advance. Of these 3 Inca Trail trek the Classic 4-day version is the most popular with 3 nights spent camping. If there are no spaces available on the Inca Trail then you may want to consider the Salkantay / Santa Teresa 5-day trek which is an excellent trek in its own right and skirts the base of the snow-capped Salkantay mountain. This trek involves 3 nights camping and the 4th night is spent in a hotel in Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu is visited on the 5th day. You could also consider one of the treks in the Lares Valley. Tour operators offer several different Lares Valley routes with the easiest and most popular starting in the town of Lares and continuing to the village of Patacancha. Trekkers either walk down to Ollantaytambo or take a mini-bus. From Ollantaytambo you then take the train to Aguas Calientes, spend a night in a hotel and then visit Machu Picchu the following day.

Inca Trail Treks to Machu Picchu

These three treks are subject to Inca Trail regulations and trek permits must be bought well advance. Trek permits can sell out as far ahead as 6 months in advance. All companies offering these treks must have a special Inca Trail license. (see full list of licensed Inca Trail companies)

The Classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu (usually 4 days / 3 nights camping along the trail)

Route: Cusco – Ollantaytambo – Km82 – Wayllabamba – Pacamayu – Phuyupatamarca – Wiñay Wayna – Sun Gate – Machu Picchu

Rated: moderate

This trek is frequently rated in the top 5 best treks in the world and rightly so. Lonely Planet rated it the second best (see full Lonely Planet article here) The classic hike to Machu Picchu following the ancient route used by the Incas, passing through beautiful mountain scenery and lush green rain forest. There are plenty of Inca ruins along the way including Runkuracay, Sayacmarca, Phuyupatamarca and Wiñay Wayna. This trail is subject to the Inca Trail regulations and trek permits must be reserved well in advance.

>> more info >>

The Short Inca Trail to Machu Picchu (2 days / 1 night accommodation in hotel in Aguas Calientes)

Route: Cusco – Ollantaytambo – Km102 – Wiñay Wayna – Sun Gate – Machu Picchu (pass through) – Overnight in Aguas Calientes – Machu Picchu

Rated: easy to moderate

The shorter Inca Trail is for those trekkers with limited time on their hands or who just want to take things a little bit easier. This trail starts at km104 and ascends to the ruins of Wiñay Wayna before continuing on to Machu Picchu. Since you don’t have much time at Machu Picchu on the first day most people spend the night at the nearby town of Aguas Calientes and return to Machu Picchu again the following day.

>> more info >>

Salkantay Inca Trail to Machu Picchu Trek (typically 7 days / 6 nights camping)

Route: Cusco – Mollepata – Salkantay – Wayllabamba – Pacamayu – Phuyupatamarca – Wiñay Wayna – Sun Gate – Machu Picchu

Rated: moderate to difficult

A beautiful mountainous trek taking you away from the crowds for the first few days and finally joining the classic Inca Trail at Wayllabamba and continuing to Machu Picchu. This trail is subject to the Inca Trail regulations and trek permits must be reserved well in advance. This trek is usually done in 7 days but more experienced trekkers can do it in 6 days.

>> more info >>

Alternative Treks to Machu Picchu

At the moment the alternative treks listed below are NOT subject to the Inca Trail regulations and trek permits are not required. Therefore this trek can easily be arranged just a few days in advance when you arrive in Cusco. However if you have limited time and want to trek with one of the better quality companies we would recommend making a booking several weeks or months in advance. Because these routes are unregulated by the government any company can offer them. There are no controls over group sizes, minimum wages, maximum weight loading for porters or horses, minimum safety equipment or environmental issues such as disposal of rubbish. Therefore there is fierce competition at the bottom end of the market as companies try to offer the lowest prices. Our advice is always to book with a quality tour operator to avoid exploitation of trekking staff and the environment. Although both of the treks listed below usually state that they end at Machu Picchu neither of them enter by way of the Sun Gate. The Lares Treks usually end at Ollantaytambo where you will take the train to Aguas Calientes and then visit Machu Picchu the following day. The Salkantay / Santa Teresa trek ends in the Santa Teresa Valley where you then take a late afternoon train to Aguas Calientes and also visit Machu Picchu the following day.

Recommended trekking companies can be found at Cusco Tour Operators

The Lares Valley to Machu Picchu Trek – “The Weaver’s Way”

Route: Cusco – Lares Valley – Ollantaytambo .

Then by train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes & Machu Picchu. Rated: Easy to moderate depending on route. Various options are available. The Lares Valley is a beautiful valley that runs parallel to and “behind” the Sacred Valley of the Incas. This series of mountain pathways takes you through unspoiled valleys well off the usual tourist trail. You’ll see small communities living the same way as hundreds of years ago, practicing their local traditions and farming techniques. You will also have the chance to see locals producing beautiful hand-made textiles. There are several route options that start at either the thermal springs in Lares, the village of Quishuarani or Huaran in the Sacred Valley. Most of the options finish in the village of Patacancha a small weaving community not far from Ollantaytambo. A bus then takes you down to Ollantaytambo where you will take a train to Aguas Calientes. A visit to Machu Picchu is included on the final day

>> more info >>

The Salkantay / Santa Teresa to Machu Picchu Trek (typically 5 days)

Route: Cusco – Mollepata – Salkantay – Hidroelectrica – Aguas Calientes – Machu Picchu Rated: moderate

This trek has become a popular alternative to the classic 4 day Inca Trail especially during the high season when spaces on the Inca Trail have become fully booked. The first three days involve a fairly difficult trek to La Playa campsite. The fourth day involves a trek down to the Hydroelectric Plant in the Santa Teresa Valley and then shortly after taking the afternoon train to Aguas Calientes where you spend the night. The final day is spent visiting Machu Picchu and then returning to Cusco in the evening.

>> more info >>

Alternative Treks that don’t end in Machu Picchu

Ausangate Circuit (4 to 7 days)

Route: Several options exist raging from 4 to 7 days

Rated: moderate to difficult

This trek takes you off to the snowy Vilcanota mountain range and circles the 6384m peak of Ausangate worshipped throughout the Cusco region as one of the most powerful of mountain Apus or spirits. This stunning route often combines trekking and horse riding and takes you through tiny Andean villages and past emerald coloured lakes. A trek for the hardy and well acclimatized.

>> more info >>

Choquequirao (4 or 5 days)

Rated: moderate but lack of water and shade can make this trek feel like a difficult one if you are not suitably prepared

Another of the “lost cities of the Incas”. Still rarely visited although with new regulations being applied to cut congestion on the Inca Trail, Choquequirao is destined to replace the traditional hike as the serious trekkers alternative.

>> more info >>

Vilcabamba (7 days)

Follow the route of the retreating Incas in there attempt to flee the Spanish Conquistadors. This steamy trek through the rain forests of the Vilcabamba region is a must for Inca enthusiasts and for those seeking real adventure.


Cusco Adventure Activities

Mountain Biking in Cusco

Cusco has the potential to offer some top class biking trips but, generally, facilities are underdeveloped and the quality of rental bikes is just about adequate. It won’t take long until the situation improves, but until then serious bikers are better off bringing their own bikes. There are several tour companies and equipment rental shops along Calle Plateros which rent out bikes from $15- 25 per day. All should come complete with helmet, pump, basic tool kit and puncture repair kit. Excellent day trips include Chinchero to Ollantaytambo and from the Inca ruins of Tambomachay to Calca. Both routes are long downhill sections followed by flat sections along the Sacred Valley and are on paved roads. The start and finish points are easily accessed by local bus to or from Cusco. Just throw your bike on the bus roof and hope for the best! There are some off-road alternatives to the above routes but you must bare in mind that most trails in and around Cusco are frequently used by farmers and villagers; encounters with a large group of cyclists hurtling along can prove a little unsettling to the locals so please be careful. Most companies that rent out bikes can provide basic maps and route descriptions, as well as guides and private transportation. For the more adventurous, longer biking trips can be arranged. These are best undertaken with the support of an experienced tour operator who can provide professional guides and equipment as well as the necessary support vehicles. A popular route is from Tres Cruces to La Union on the road from Cusco to Manu (Amazon jungle). Some of the Manu specialists can arrange this beautiful, breathtaking trip.

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White-Water Rafting in Cusco

Cusco Urubamba River (1 day) Day trips whitewater rafting on the Urubamba River are extremely popular and easily arranged once you arrive in Cusco. Typical trips depart Cusco daily at 9am and return by 3pm, leaving about 3 hours actually on the river. Trips usually include lunch, transport and all safety equipment and costs start at about $25 per person. Some trips combine a visit to the Inca ruins of Ollantaytambo or Pisac on the way back to Cusco. Cusco Apurimac River (4 days / 3 nights) The Apurimac means ‘speaking God’ in Quechua and was considered a sacred river by the Incas. On its way to the mighty Amazon, this spectacular river cuts deep through gorges, surrounded by steep cliffs and sheer granite walls and slowly descends into wide pastoral valleys and tropical rainforest, providing some of the most exciting whitewater in the world. Most of the time will be spent rafting class III+ and IV rapids, although there are a few IV+ and V rapids along the way. Amongst the wildlife to be found in this remote and isolated canyon are river otters, condors, foxes and torrent ducks. There are several tour companies in Cusco operating this trip (see Cusco Tour Operators #Rafting ), all running a similar itinerary. Obviously safety is of paramount importance in this ‘high risk’ adventure activity, so choosing a professional company should be priority.

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Horseback Riding in the Sacred Valley

Perol Chico

www.perolchico.com This excellent well-established ranch and riding stables near Urubamba in the Sacred Valley is run by Dutch-Peruvian Eduard van Brunschot and his wife Maria Zans Gamarra. They offer several horseback riding tours on Peruvian paso horses. Itineraries range from 2 days rides (Salineras, Maras & Moray) including meals and accommodation as well as longer tours up to 11 days.

Cusco For You

www.cuscoforyou.com Ranch is located just outside Urubamba about 4km along the road to Ollantaytambo. You will have to cross the Urubamba River on a small footbridge. This is the path that takes you up to the Salineras (Maras Salt Pans). The ranch is about 400m after the bridge Cusco For You offer horseback riding day trips to the Saneras, Maras & Moray as well as longer trips. They also offer accommodation and other activities in the area such as mountain biking and hiking.

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Ziplining in Cusco

Eye of the Jaguar (Sacred Valley)

Located at Maras, a small village off the Chinchero-Urubamba road in the Sacred Valley. http://www.eyeofthejaguarmaras.com This company has one zipline, but it is the longest zipline in the world. The zipline is 2,130 meters long. It is very fast – riders get to approximately 110 kilometers per hour. The tour costs $30 USD per person, and can be combined with other tours nearby, such as a mountain biking tour, or a car-based tour to Maras-Moray-Salineras.

Sacred Valley Via Ferrata and Ziplines (Sacred Valley)

This company offers a tour that combines ziplines with via ferrata. Via ferrata is a way for inexperienced mountain climbers to climb a mountain, using metal steps that have been drilled into the mountain.

The tour also has 5 or 6 ziplines, but these ziplines are medium speed and vary from 100 to 500 meters in length. This tour usually costs around $60 to $70 USD. http://naturavive.com/web/

Cola de Mono (Santa Teresa)

Located 2 km from Santa Teresa. http://canopyperu.com/en/

Mountain Climbing in Cusco

The Cordilleras Vilcabamba and Vilcanota provide some exciting climbing in the province of Cusco. However, most of the climbs are technically difficult and there are very few opportunities for inexperienced climbers. All serious expeditions should be planned well in advance with June to September being the best months to make an attempt on a summit. There are very few tour agencies in Cusco with suitable experience of mountaineering. Enigma www.enigmaperu.com can help arrange expeditions including some climbs for people with no previous experience Mount Salkantay Altitude: 6,271m Duration: 12-14 days Months for climbing: June-Sept Mount Ausangate Altitude: 6,385m Duration: 9 days Month for climbing: June-Sept.