Visit Machu Picchu, Peru

*** Important Note:
The last couple of years the government has limited the number of visitors to Machu Picchu to just 2500 people per day. Tickets are no longer on sale at the entrance to Machu Picchu so to avoid disappointment it is essential that visitors purchase their Machu Picchu entrance tickets in advance either in Cusco (still ok during the low season) or much further in advance (during the high seaon June, July & August) either online directly with the government or authorized ticket agent or by booking a package tour. In 2014 there were a couple of weeks in August when the entrance tickets sold out 3 or 4 days in advance so visitors who arrived in Cusco hoping to buy tickets to visit Machu Picchu for the following days were disappointed not to be able to obtain tickets (disappointed is putting it mildly!).

Names and passport numbers are needed in order to buy a ticket and these details are checked at the entrance to Machu Picchu and cannot be changed once the ticket has been issued. Therefore when the tickets have sold out they have really sold out. Companies can’t buy up all the tickets with the intention of selling them on since they need real names and passport numbers to buy the tickets. There is no black market for entrance tickets since they cannot be resold or transferred to other people. As more people realise that it is important to buy their entrance tickets in advance more of them will be doing it and the tickets are likely to sell out even further in advance. Luckily now you know, so make sure it’s not you who visits Peru but doesn’t get to visit Machu Picchu. Details how and when to buy your tickets are included in summary below with links to pages with more detailed information. ***

Introduction to Machu Picchu

“Machu Picchu is a trip to the serenity of the soul, to the eternal fusion with the cosmos; where we feel our fragility. It is one of the greatest marvels of South America. A resting place of butterflies in the epicentre of the great circle of life. One more miracle.” – Pablo Neruda, The Heights of Machu Picchu.

Located 120 km northwest of Cusco, the Inca city of Machu Picchu lay hidden from the world in dense jungle covered mountains until 1911. This ‘Lost City’ is one of the world’s archaeological jewels and is one of South America’s major travel destinations.

The well preserved ruins of Machu Picchu seem to almost cling to the steep hillside, surrounded by towering green mountains overlooking the Vilcanota River Valley. Even after having seen the classic photos of Machu Picchu in guide books & web sites you still cannot fail but to be impressed by the awe-inspiring location of the ruins.
When you read about its discovery and the unsolved mystery of its purpose and how it came to become ‘lost to the world’ you will realize why so many people make the pilgrimage to visit this fascinating and spiritual site.

With the right information, getting to Machu Picchu shouldn’t be as much a mystery as the place itself. You can either book all the components of the trip independently yourself or you can buy a ready made package tour from one of hundreds of tour operators offering this service. However as Machu Picchu becomes more and more popular it is important to try and make your arrangements as far in advance as you can. During the peak season (June, July & August) there were several weeks in 2015 when the entrance tickets to Machu Picchu sold out more than a week in advance and many visitors who arrived thinking they could buy tickets on the door were turned away and never got to see Machu Picchu. There didn’t seem to be so much of a problem in 2016 either because visitor numbers were down or visitors were better prepared. However imagine after spending so much money on your airfares and travelling half way across the world only to be turned away at the door to Machu Picchu because all the tickets had sold out !! Luckily, after reading this, that won’t happen to you.

In order to plan your trip to Machu Picchu you have to understand a little bit about the geography of the area. Machu Picchu lay hidden from the world for such a long time because its location is fairly remote and inaccessible. Machu Picchu is located high up on a mountainside covered in dense vegetation overlooking the Vilcanota River. Nowadays a very steep and narrow zigzagging dirt track connects Machu Picchu with the nearest village of Aguas Calientes (Aguas Calientes literally means “Hot Waters” in Spanish and is so named because of the thermals baths that can be found there). Regular buses run the route between Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu approximately every 15 minutes between 5am and 6pm. The 6km journey takes about 25 minutes. However the road between Aguas Calientes and the ruins of Machu Picchu is the only one ! there are no other roads connecting Aguas Calientes to rest of Peru but there is a railway running a frequent service between Aguas Calientes and Ollantaytambo (in the Sacred Valley) with some trains continuing to the village of Poroy (just outside Cusco). See Getting to Machu Picchu for detailed information.

 

Machu Picchu When to Go

Peru’s seasons are the reverse of those in the northern hemisphere. Summer in Peru is from December to February and winter from June to August. There’s not a bad time to visit Peru, however as a very general recommendation the best time to visit Cusco and Machu Picchu is from the beginning of April until the end of October which is during the dry season.

Average Temperatures and Rainfall

Cusco Temperatures and Rainfall
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Av. High (F) 66 66 67 68 68 67 67 68 68 70 69 68
Av. High (C) 19 19 19 20 20 19 19 20 20 21 20 20
Av. Low (F) 44 44 44 41 37 34 34 34 39 42 43 43
Av. Low (C) 7 7 7 5 3 1 1 1 4 6 6 6
Wet Days 16 12 10 7 4 3 2 2 6 8 10 14

Peru is divided up into three distinct geographical regions: the coast, the mountain highlands and the jungle.

The Mountain Highlands (Cusco, Lake Titicaca, etc)

Mid April – October.

This period is the dry season, with hot, dry days and cold, dry nights, often hovering just above freezing, particularly in June and July. May is perhaps the best month with the countryside exceptionally lush, yet with superb views and fine weather. You’ll find the flowers in full bloom, the grass green and the streams full.
Peru’s high season is from June to August which coincides with the dry season and summer holidays in North America and Europe. You’ll find Cusco a pretty cosmopolitan city with tourists from all over the globe converging on Machu Picchu.

November – Mid April

This is the wet season with most rain in January and February. It’s usually clear and dry most mornings with outbursts of heavy rain in the afternoons. The daily temperatures are typically mild with only a small drop at night.

The Inca Trail is much less crowded during this period and there’s a more abundant fresh water supply, but of course be well equipped for the rain. You’ll also find some roads may become impassable particularly when trying to visit villages off the beaten track.

Many of Peru’s major festivals such as Carnival and Easter Week take place during this period.


 

Getting to Machu Picchu

The first thing that you will notice from the map above is that the starting point of all routes to Machu Picchu is the city of Cusco, the historic capital of the Incas located about 120km to the south-east of Machu Picchu. Cusco is a beautiful and fascinating city and the perfect place to base yourself for a few days. The second thing you’ll notice is that there are no direct roads between Cusco and Machu Picchu. There’s a good paved road from Cusco to Ollantaytambo which is in the Sacred Valley but the river valley between Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes (the town nearest to Machu Picchu) is so narrow and winding that there is only just enough room for a single line railway which hugs the edge of the fast flowing River Vilcanota and passes through several tunnels (it is prohibited to walk along the railway track for obvious reasons). Therefore unless you plan to trek to Machu Picchu via the Inca Trail then you will end up taking a combination of bus and train to Aguas Calientes and then take the short bus ride from Aguas Calientes up to the ruins at Machu Picchu.

Getting to Machu Picchu by Train

Visiting Machu Picchu by using a combination of bus and train from Cusco is, by far, the most popular method of transport. Around 80% of visitors use this method (60% taking the train from Ollantaytambo and 20% taking the train from Poroy, a station located just outside Cusco).

Option 1: Train from Ollantaytambo Station (most popular method)

Take a bus or taxi from Cusco to Ollantaytambo Station in the Sacred Valley. 2 hours > Travel by train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes. 1 hour 30 minutes > Take the shuttle bus from Aguas Calientes up to the ruins of Machu Picchu. 25 minutes > Visit Machu Picchu > Return to Cusco by the same route.

Option 2: Train from Poroy Station

Take a bus or taxi from Cusco to Poroy Station. 20 minutes > Travel by train from Poroy to Aguas Calientes. 3 hours 15 minutes > Take the shuttle bus from Aguas Calientes up to the ruins of Machu Picchu. 25 minutes > Visit Machu Picchu > Return to Cusco by the same route.

What you need to consider:

If you plan to organize a trip to Machu Picchu yourself without buying a ready-made package from a tour operator then you will need to break down the booking process into its separate stages and tackle them one at a time.
1. Transport from Cusco to the train station (Ollantaytambo or Poroy) – can easily be arranged when in Cusco
2. Train tickets to Aguas Calientes (train station and town nearest to Machu Picchu) – you have to decide to do a day trip or spread the journey over 2 days (recommended) – book in advance
3. Hotel accommodation in Aguas Calientes (only necessary if staying the night and not required for day-trippers) – book in advance
4. Bus tickets from Aguas Calientes up to the Machu Picchu ruins (Shuttle Bus) – can be arranged in Cusco or Aguas Calientes
5. Entrance tickets to Machu Picchu – decide what type of entrance ticket you want – If you want just the standard Machu Picchu Only tickets we would recommend booking at least 3 days in advance during the high season. It is possible that they may sell out quicker so why risk waiting until you arrive in Cusco. We would recommend booking at least a few weeks in advance to avoid any problems. During the low season it may still be possible to buy your entrance tickets the day before you visit Machu Picchu. But, again, why risk waiting. If you want to buy the Machu Picchu & Huayna Picchu combo ticket then you should really try to buy this ticket several months in advance to avoid disappointment.

See our web page Click here for more information about the 4 day Classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu trek

Option 2: Short Inca Trail to Machu Picchu* (2 days):

Again this trek has to be organized with an authorized trekking company and trek permits have to be purchased several months in advance. The tour involves:
Taking a bus from Cusco to Ollantaytambo station > Travel by train Ollantaytambo to km104 > Trekking to Machu Picchu (you usually don’t get the chance to visit Machu Picchu on this day) > Take the shuttle bus from Machu Picchu to Aguas Calientes (1 night in hotel in Aguas Calientes) > Take the shuttle bus to Machu Picchu > Visit Machu Picchu > Take the shuttle bus from Machu Picchu to Aguas Calientes > Travel by train from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo Station > Take a bus from Ollantaytambo back to Cusco.

* This trek arrive at Machu Picchu by way of Inti Punku (Sun Gate) offering spectacular views of Machu Picchu weather permitting. The trail then descends to the Machu Picchu

Click here for more information about the Santa Teresa trek to Machu Picchu

Getting to Machu Picchu by road via Santa Maria & Santa Teresa

This is a long, tiring and potentially dangerous bus ride from Cusco to Santa Maria via Santa Teresa and then either continuing by foot to Aguas Calientes or taking the train from Hidro-Electrica. This journey is hardly worth considering unless (a) you are really really counting your pennies (b) you decide to mountain bike down much of the down hill section of road between Abra de Malaga and Santa Maria which is quite spectacular but still quite possible you will meet face to face with a large truck on the wrong side of the road during any of the numerous hairpin bends along the route (c) all Peru Rail train tickets have sold out and this really is your last hope of seeing Machu Picchu.
There are a number of travel agents in Cusco advertising Machu Picchu by private car – it’s this route they are referring to. Good luck.

 

 

Planning your trip to Machu Picchu

If you search the internet for tours to Machu Picchu the majority of companies that come up top in the search results are large overseas tour operators that organize package tours to Peru and Machu Piccu that include flights, hotels, and all siteseeing tours. See our list of Taking the Train to Machu Picchu. In this example we’re going to take the Vistadome 31 service departing Poroy at 06:40 and arriving at Aguas Calientes at 09:54 price US$95 per person (2016 price). All the train services from Poroy are popular and sell out quickly so these tickets are best booked several months in advance. If they are sold out then you’ll have to get a service that departs from Ollantaytambo. Cost of the train ticket US$95 per person

3. Bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu. Once you arrive at Aguas Calientes its a 5 minute walk to where the buses depart for Machu Picchu. It’s a 25 minute ride up a narrow, winding, dirt road to the ruins at Machu Picchu. Buses depart Aguas Calientes when they are full but typically every 10 minutes. The price of the return trip on the bus is US$24 per person. You can buy your bus tickets from the bus ticket office in Aguas Calientes but sometimes you could be waiting 20 minutes in a queue. We would recommend that you buy your bus tickets in advance in Cusco to save the wait in Aguas Calientes. Even with a bus ticket you’ll still have to wait in line for up to 30 minutes to get on a bus. For more details see our webpage Entrance Tickets & Buying Entrance Tickets Online. Budget US$40 per person for the entrance ticket.

5. Guided tour of Machu Picchu. Guides can often be found outside the entrance offering their services. All guides have to be registered to get into the ruins but quality can vary. If you want a guide expect to pay around US$50 for a 2 hour tour, that’s US$25 per person based on two sharing. If you have a few friends to help share the cost or the guide already has a group that you can join then you might get the price down to around US$10 per person. For this example we’ll budget US$15 per person for the guided tour and assume you manage to find another couple of people who were interested. It should also be noted that its not always possible to find a guide so this shouldn’t be relied upon. Most organized tours give you a 2 hour guide tour of Machu Picchu

6. Free time at Machu Picchu. Obviously the amount of free time you spend at Machu Picchu depends on at what time your train leaves. Lets assume you take the last Vistadome train back to Poroy. This is the Vistdome 604 service departing Aguas Calientes at 17:23. You need to be at the station at least 30 minutes before departure and you need to allow 40 minutes to get from Machu Picchu in the bus to the train station. Therefore you really should leave Machu Picchu by 4pm at the latest. You should have finished your guided tour around 13:30 or 14:00 so 2 hours free time to explore the ruins is about right. You may only need an hour on your own in the ruins and then an hour for lunch, there’s a cafe and restaurant just outside the ruins or you can go back to Aguas Calientes where there are plenty of good restaurants and cafés. If you decide to take a train back only as far as Ollantaytambo rather than all the way to Poroy you’ll have more train services to choose from and you can leave Aguas Calientes much later which will give you more free time at Machu Picchu or time to explore Aguas Calientes.

7. Train from Aguas Calientes to Poroy. In this example we’ll take the Vistadome 604 service departing Aguas Calientes at 17:23 and arriving at Poroy at 20:50. Budget US$99 per person

8. Taxi from Poroy back to you hotel in Cusco. Allow US$10 for a taxi and you’ll be back in Cusco for around 21:15, quick shower and out to eat. Budget US$10

Therfore if you organize the 1 day tour to Machu Picchu yourself using the Vistadome service from Poroy to Machu Picchu (based on 2 people sharing) expect to pay US$10 taxi + US$95 train + US$24 shuttle bus + US$40 entrance fee + US$15 guided tour + US$99 train + US$10 taxi = US$293 per person.

Alternatively if you took a taxi to Ollantaytambo train station and then took the Expedition service to Aguas Calientes and returned by a similar method then you could probably save yourself around US$20-30 per person. In my opinion there is very little difference between the Expedition and Vistadome services, they both have large windows and skylights but the Vistadome has more leg room and a table and would be my preference for the longer journey from Poroy.

So US$293 per person for a tour to Machu Picchu is a good starting point to consider when looking at prices offered by various local tour operators and travel agents. How much more are you willing to pay to have everything nicely organized for you? Most tour operators send you off on the train and have the guide meet you in Aguas Calientes. You can expect to pay much more if the guide is going to accompany you all the way from Cusco and take you back to your hotel. Price will also depend on the maximum group size and train service provided. If you decided to take the very luxurious Hiram Bingham train service from Poroy to Aguas Calientes you can expect to pay more than US$1000 per a day tour! See www.machupicchu.gob.pe and valid for 2017. Prices may be subject to change so please check the website for up-to-date information.

Machu Picchu + Huayna Picchu Tickets

Adults S/200 (about US$62)
Students with ISIC card and children 8-17 years old S/125 (about US$39)

Huayna Picchu is the large mountain you can see behind Machu Picchu as indicated in the photo below. There is a steep and narrow path that leads up the mountainside and some interesting Inca ruins on the top from where you can get some spectacular views of Machu Picchu and the surrounding Vilcanota Valley. You obviously should be quite fit to make the climb and not be scared of heights. Allow 2 hours to get up and back. You can’t buy a ticket just to climb Huayna Picchu, you can only buy a combined Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu ticket.

A maximum number of four hundred persons per day can climb Huayna Picchu. Two hundred people are allowed to start the climb between 07:00 and 08:00 (Group 01) and must return by 10:00. Another two hundred people are allowed to start the climb between 10:00 and 11:00 (group 02) and must return by 13:00. When buying your Machu Picchu + Huayna Picchu tickets you have to state which group you want to be in.

Machu Picchu + Montaña Tickets

Adults S/200 (about US$62)
Students with ISIC card and children 8-17 years old S/125 (about US$39)

Machu Picchu Montaña is the large mountain that overlooks Machu Picchu. Its indicated on the photo below which has been taken from the top of Huayna Picchu. You can even see Salkantay mountain in the top right hand corner. Allow 3 hours to get up and back (1.5 hrs up, 30 minutes at the top and 1 hour return). You can’t buy a ticket just to climb Machu Picchu Montaña, you can only buy a combined Machu Picchu and Montaña ticket.

Buying an Organized Tour to Machu Picchu

The easiest way to get your entrance tickets is to buy an organized tour to Machu Picchu. If you buy a tour then the entrance tickets, train tickets, bus tickets and guide will be included in the package so you don’t need to worry about anything. You’ll need to give the tour company your name, passport number, gender, nationality and date of birth and they’ll take care of everything else. For more info see www.machupicchu.gob.pe Visit our web page Buying Machu Piccu Entrance Tickets Online for information and help using the website as it can be a bit confusing.

2. Buying Machu Picchu tickets using an authorized agent

Although there are literally hundreds of travel companies in Cusco that have a license to sell Machu Picchu tickets very few offer just the entrance tickets on their own, obviously they want to sell you a package tour that also includes the train tickets, bus tickets and guide. There are a couple of online agents just selling the tickets but its hard for us to recommend one in particular.

3. Buying Machu Picchu tickets when you arrive in Cusco

If you are arriving in Cusco a few days before planning to visit Machu Picchu then you could buy your Machu Picchu entrance tickets at the government office or through an authorized agent such as with PeruRail. In the low season November – March (excluding Christmas and New Year) then it should be possible to buy your entrance tickets two or three days in advance, maybe even one day in advance if you are lucky. During the high season May – September entrance tickets can sell out three or four days in advance so unless you have plenty of time it’s best to book online several weeks in advance to avoid disappointment.

The government offices are located at:
Oficinas de la Dirección Desconcentrada de Cultura
Calle Garcilazo SN – Museo Casa Garcilaso (Monday-Saturday 7:00 am – 19:30 pm), closed Sundays and public holidays
If you want to buy a student or child entrance ticket this is the place to go. Remember to take your passport as you’ll need to show it to buy the ticket.

Alternatively to can buy your Machu Picchu entrance ticket at the Peru Rail offices in the main Plaza de Armas.

Peru Rail
Address: Portal de Carnes 214, Plaza de Armas, Cusco Opening hours Monday to Sunday 7am-10pm. PeruRail also have offices at Lima Airport (National Departures, 2nd floor, between Gates 13 and 14 open 4am-8pm) and also at the LarcoMar Shopping Center in Miraflores open 11am-10pm.
* Machu Picchu entrance tickets will only be sold to customers who have purchased train tickets with Peru Rail.

 

Machu Picchu Shuttle Bus

Departure Times

Buses travel depart from the town of Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu every 15 minutes from 5:30 am until around 3:00 pm. Return buses start to leave Machu Picchu at 6.30am with the last one departing for Aguas Calientes at 5:45pm. The journey takes approximately 25 minutes as the bus climbs the steep road following a series of switchbacks to the ruins . If you are on a really tight budget and feeling adventurous you can always walk from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu following a footpath which cuts across the switchbacks. It’s fairly strenuous uphill trek and takes about 90 minutes. Not to be attempted with young children or when its very wet as the path can be quite slippery.

Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu 5.30 am – 3:00 pm
Machu Picchu to Aguas Calientes 6.30am – 5:45pm

If you want to catch the first bus up to Machu Picchu leaving at 5.30am then I’d recommend that you buy your bus ticket in advance and arrive at the bus stop at least 45 minutes early to get near the front of the queue. You’ll see a long line of buses waiting to take visitors up to Machu Picchu, the buses depart as soon as they are full so for the first hour or so buses are departing virtually one after the other.

Prices (May Vary by Day and Time)

*Prices may change without notice.

Ticket Type Price

Foreign Adult Return US$24
Foreign Adult One-way US$12
Foreign Child Return US$12
Foreign Child One-way US$7

Peruvian Adult Return US$15
Peruvian Adult One-way US$8
Peruvian Student Return US$10
Peruvian Student One-way US$6
Peruvian Child Return US$8
Peruvian Child One-way US$5

Guide Return S/.12
Cusco Resident Return S/.19
Cusco Resident One-way S/.9.50
Machu Picchu Resident Return S/.8
All children under 5 years old Free

You can buy the bus tickets up to 7 days in advance. The tickets are valid for 3 days but for only one use.
You must show you travel document (passport) to buy a ticket.

The website of the bus operator CONSETTUR can be found at www.consettur.com

Ticket Sales

You can’t buy the bus tickets online. You can easily buy your bus ticket at the ticket office in Aguas Calientes when you arrive. Sometimes the queue to buy your bus tickets in Aguas Calientes can be quite long particularly for the first buses in the morning so, to save time, you can buy your bus tickets in advance in Cusco.

In Aguas Calientes:

Address: the bus stop, Avenida Hermanos Ayar (Aguas Calientes isn’t big so it’s not too hard to find). When leaving the train station just follow the crowd as nearly everyone will be heading for the bus stop.
Opening hours: Monday – Sunday 5am – 9pm

At Machu Picchu

Address: just outside the main entrance
Opening hours: Monday – Sunday 7.30am – 5.30pm

In Cusco:

Cusco main office
Address: Avenida Infancia 433, Wanchaq, Cusco
Opening hours: Monday- Saturday 8am – 12:45pm, 3pm – 6pm Sundays 8am – 12:45pm

Interbank (probably the most convenient place to buy the bus ticket but there can be long queues at times)
Address: Avenida Sol 380, Cusco
Opening hours: Monday- Friday 9am – 1pm, 2pm – 6pm Saturday 9am – 1pm

 

 

Machu Picchu History

After the conquest of Peru by the Spanish, the rebellious Inca Manco Capac II secretly slipped away from Cusco in the night and retreated northwest beyond Ollantaytambo and into the depths of the jungle where he established a town called Vilcabamba. It was from this base that the last of the Incas attacked the Spaniards in Cusco for the next 36 years. In 1572 the Spanish eventually lost their patience and mounted a brutal invasion against the Inca resistance. They attacked Vilcabamba and finally brought the last Inca Tupac Amaru (Manco’s heir and half brother) back to Cusco in chains where he was executed in the Plaza de Armas. Many of his potential heirs and family were either executed or dispersed, putting to rest the Inca dynasty for good. With time the location of the abandoned town of Vilcabamba became forgotten all apart from a few ambiguous maps and clues left by some Spanish chroniclers.

Hiram Bingham, a doctor in philosophy and history at Yale University, became fascinated with Inca archaeology and stories of lost cities when he was visiting Peru in 1909 whilst retracing the footsteps of Simon Bolivar (South America’s great liberator). He returned to Peru in 1911 with a seven man expedition sponsored by Yale University and the National Geographical Society.

Leaving Cusco in July 1911 Bingham and his team set out in the direction of the jungle, heading down the Urubamba Valley. Bingham had previously spent time in Lima reading through the many Spanish manuscripts. He was convinced that lost cities, Inca ruins and possibly unmentionable treasures lay somewhere in this part of Peru. Almost immediately the group discovered a major Inca site which they named Patallacta (also called Llactapata). This ruin can be found at the start of the Inca Trail at the junction of the Cusichaca and Vilcanota River. Bingham and his companions travelled on.

On 23 July 1911, only a week into the expedition, the group camped at Mandorpampa, a few kilometres further along the Vilcanota River Valley than the present day village of Aguas Calientes. By chance they got talking to Melchor Artega, the owner of a local hacienda. Bingham was told of some fine ruins high up in the hills on the other side of the river and Artega was willing to take them there. The next day it rained and only Bingham had the enthusiasm to climb the steep side of the mountain, accompanied by Artega.
To his surprise at the top he was greeted by two locals, Toribio Richarte and Anacleto Alvarez, who had been living up on the mountainside for a few years to avoid the police and tax collectors. After a short rest the men led Bingham to the ancient site.

“I soon found myself before the ruined walls of buildings built with some of the finest stonework of the Incas. It was difficult to see them as they were partially covered over by trees and moss, the growth of centuries; but in the dense shadow, hiding in bamboo thickets and toggled vines, could be seen, here and there walls of white granite ashlars most carefully cut and exquisitely fitted together (…). I was left truly breathless.”
Extract from ‘The Lost City of the Incas’ by Hiram Bingham

Bingham believed that he’d stumbled across the rebel Inca’s last strong hold and that Vilcabamba had at last been found. This ‘discovery’ stood unchallenged for the next 50 years until Bingham’s mistake was affirmed by Gene Savoy in 1964, when he discovered what most people agree are the true ruins of Vilcabamba at Espiritu Pampa, 4 or 5 days hard trek further into the jungle. Ironically Hiram Bingham actually found part of these ruins during his 1909 expedition, but considered them unimportant.

Having succeeded in raising sufficient sponsorship, Bingham returned to Machu Picchu the following year to commence the huge task of clearing the ruins of vegetation – a job that took 3 years. During this time many ceramics, stone objects and bones were found and taken back to the United States. Construction of a railway began in 1913 finally reaching Aguas Calientes in 1928. The road up to the ruins was completed in 1948 and inaugurated by Bingham himself. In 1981 a 325 km2 area around Machu Picchu was declared a Historical Sanctuary by the Peruvian Government, and given the status of a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1983.

So if Machu Picchu wasn’t the lost city of Vilcabamba, what was it? Its location certainly wasn’t known of by the Spanish at the time of the conquest and concealing an entire populated region from them, many of whom had allies among the Incas, would have been impossible.
The only plausible explanation is that the Incas, during the time of the Spanish conquest, did not know of it either! For some reason the city and its region were abandoned before the arrival of the conquistadors and its memory erased even to the Incas.
Archaeologists agree that the style of Machu Picchu’s buildings is “late imperial Inca” placing it within the reign of the Inca Pachacutec. Pachacutec was responsible for the defeat of the Chanca invasion from the north, an event that took place in 1438 and marked the beginning of the great Inca expansion.

Based on our previous conclusion that Machu Picchu was abandoned before the arrival of the Spaniards, this leaves a space of less than 100 years for it to have been constructed, populated, deserted and forgotten about. Although nearly all leading archaeologists agree on this time scale it is still quite difficult to believe. The purpose of Machu Picchu and the reason for its subsequent abandonment is still very much a mystery and inspiration for as many stories as there are tour guides (or guide books for that matter).

The more recent view is that, rather than being seen in isolation, Machu Picchu formed the ceremonial and possibly administrative centre of a large and populous region. The many trails leading to Machu Picchu tend to support this. Recent evidence presented by the archaeologist J.H.Rowe suggest that Machu Picchu was simply built as a ‘royal estate’ for the Inca Pachacutec and populated by his own ayllu or family clan. The location was probably chosen for its unique position surrounded by the jungle and the important mountains of Salkantay, Pumasillo and Veronica, and overlooking the Vilcanota River, a position which in the Inca religion would have been considered sacred. In fact the Inca Trail leading to Machu Picchu may well have been considered not just a road, but a route of pilgrimage to this sacred centre.

Machu Picchu could also have served several secondary purposes at once, including a look-out post guarding the route to Cusco from the Antisuyo or Amazon Basin, or as a protected source of coca used in every aspect of Inca religion including its use in sacrifice, divination and medicine.
When you stand in Machu Picchu and look around you it’s not difficult to feel the energy that its location possesses. If we feel awe-inspired by the presence of the mountains, the jungle and the gushing white water of the Vilcanota River below us, it doesn’t seem too hard to comprehend that the Incas, who lived with the utmost respect for the beauty of their surroundings including the worship of the mountains, rocks, water, rivers and the sun, moon and stars, felt that Machu Picchu was a very special and sacred place as well.
Evidence suggest that Machu Picchu, with its 200 or so buildings, had a permanent population of about 1000 people.

The abandonment of Machu Picchu may simply be explained by the death of Pachacutec and the construction of a new ‘royal estate’ for the next Inca, as was the custom. Other scholars suggest that the city’s water supply may have dried up.
During your guided tour of the ruins you will no doubt hear some of the more interesting stories of the city’s purpose including being a last refuge for Cusco’s Virgins of the Sun (Inca nuns) or the location where the mythical first Inca, Manco Capac, emerged from a sacred cave with his brothers and sisters. It all makes good listening … and who knows, it may even be true!

For more in depth reading try:-
Conquest of the Incas by John Hemming, London 1970. A history book that has you captivated like an adventure novel. Highly recommended.
Lost city of the Incas by Hiram Bingham, New York 1972. A bit dated in his theories but still an interesting read.
The Sacred Center by Johan Reinhardt, Nuevas Imagenes 1995. Up to date information by well known archaeologist.