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Peru Handicrafts - Arpilleras |
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Arpilleras
Arpilleras or cuadros, exquisitely detailed
hand-sewn three dimensional textile pictures, illustrate the stories of the
lives of the women of the shantytowns (pueblo jovenes) of Lima, Peru and provide
essential income for their families.
"Arpilleras originated in Chile, where women political prisoners who were held
during the Pinochet regime used them to camouflage notes sent to helpers
outside. Even the most suspicious guards did not think to check the appliquéd
pictures for messages, since sewing was seen as inconsequential 'women's work'.
Today, arpilleras are created in a number of cooperatives located in the dusty
shantytowns of poor and displaced families that ring the capital city of Lima."
Pueblos are collections of the poorest people with unemployment near 80% and few
sources of income. "Often the homes are shacks composed of salvaged parts: old
doors, panels of straw matting, crating and corrugated metal. Water must be
trucked in to the shantytowns because there are no water or sewage systems.
Often, the small income from the sale of arpilleras provides the only source of
income for families displaced from their traditional lives in the mountains. For
others, this income allows the family to educate their children, to provide a
little better living standard. For all, it engenders a sense of community among
women who are often from very different customs and cultures; it is also a way
to express their creativity.
The arpilleras tell the stories of life: stories of planting and harvesting
potatoes, tomatoes, cabbages, grapes, corn; stories of spinning and weaving
wool; stories of country life, of tending llamas, sheep and goats; stories of
weddings and fiestas.
According to arpillera maker Rita Serapion, "We all have a little art in our
minds and in our hands; we will leave something as a legacy for society. It will
stay behind us, in another place, in another time."
From "In Her Hands" by Paola Gianturco and Toby Tuttle, Penguin Press 2000.
Peru's Booming Trade in 'Art Naif'
By Michael R. Meyer and Michael Smith in Lima
Newsweek, June 24, 1985
If a society's art is the best measure of
its progress, many of Lima's barriadas -- the city's slums -- are making giant
strides. Andean rugs, puppets and festival masks have long been staples of
Peruvian folk art, well known to much of the world. Now new examples of "art
naif" are emerging from Peru's slums -- works that bespeak of centuries of
Peruvian culture and also help scores of families make ends meet. They're called
cuadros, "hanging pictures" composed of rags and bits of stray fabric sewn
together in a sort of appliqué tapestry portraying scenes of urban and rural
peasant life. Their vigor and originality have won a following, and they are now
being exported to New York, Los Angeles and Paris.
Dozens of tapestrymakers are at work in Lima's poverty-ridden shantytowns, most
of them women who have banded together in a modern equivalent of the medieval
guilds. One of the most prominent groups is the Micaela Bastidas, a 50-member
association located in Pamplona Alta, a shantytown outside Lima and named after
an Indian heroine who helped lead a rebellion against the Spanish in 1781.
"We wanted to so something to help ourselves," says Luzinda Florindez, a mother
of three and the group's spokeswoman. "We couldn't afford to sit around with our
arms crossed."
The women got the idea for the tapestries from similar quilt work done in Chile,
but they quickly transformed it into something uniquely Peruvian. Whereas
Chilean works are highly political, packed with violence and scenes of
oppression, the Peruvian group is much less ideological. Their work is
nostalgic, religious and, well, commercial -- sometimes to a fault. Drawing on
memories of the countryside, the artisans depict rural fairs and harvest, full
of bright red apples, yellow carrots and rows of green corn -- perhaps a
subliminal compensation for the day-to-day scarcity of the shantytowns. Others
portray scenes of city life, illustrations of streets teeming with merchants,
children going to school, dogs barking at deliverymen.
Only occasionally do they inject a touch of social commentary. A squad of
policemen might be shown breaking up a hunger demonstration; leftist guerrillas
may be seen sabotaging a power station, complete with little red sticks of
dynamite.
Most of the Micaela Bastidas tapestrymakers came to Pamplona Alta in the late
1960s, when their home-to-be was a wasteland of rocks and barren fields.
"You would drop a spoon and it would be swallowed up by the sand," says Hilda
Quintana, a plump mother of four.
From that humble beginning, their progress has been striking. Rather than
picking up material in bits and pieces, the group now buys fabric by weight in
the central market.
"Green is the most difficult to find, and we need it for the fields," says Dona
Luzinda, who takes about five days to finish a tapestry. And instead of worrying
about simply selling their work, the women are now dealing with a host of
foreign buyers. James Plunkett, who runs a handicrafts export house in Lima,
took a sampling of tapestries to a Los Angeles gift fair earlier this year.
"I shipped about 150 pieces so far," he says, "and interest is picking up."
The brisk sales are certainly good news for Pamplona Alta. At Micaela Bastidas,
the women split all income evenly, and each sale brings between $5 and $25. That
may not be a great deal of money for such expressive works of art, especially
when the same articles in New York fetch much more. But for families that might
be living in a hut with a cardboard roof, it could mean the difference between a
day of square meals and no meals at all.
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